(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff216/Sephiroth1975/General/PCE-RGB-pinout-chip_zpsf3ee9a95.jpg) | Yellow is for H/V Sync, RGB pins are color matched. Exact: pin 51 - Blue pin 49 - Red pin 47 - Green pin 44 - H/V Sync |
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff216/Sephiroth1975/General/NECHuC6260YPbPrMod.png
wtf, that's really easy. Would this work with any rgb source?
Has thesteve made and tested this circuit yet?Yeah, he built/tested it for one customer. There were some hiccups, but it works now.
the S-Vid looks a bit better.
yes my green is a tad hot
the S-Vid looks a bit better.
yes my green is a tad hot
the S-Vid looks a bit better.
yes my green is a tad hot
Mmm, that's a troubling thing to say... If that is true, no reason to go this far then... The s-video out of my SNES is terrible compared to the component mod I started on it. Dot crawl, wavy interference, etc. You get beautiful, rich colors, contrast, no dot crawl when you switch to component in that case... Anyhow, I will see what the deal is when I get going on my Turbo Duo. That wasn't the best picture you posted to showcase the results, but oh well. ;)
I"m just always impressed when people dream this stuff up and make it work. call me easy but tech stuff like this is great.
Any other pics of this? I'll definitely do this mod but not if it turns out like thesteve's screenshot haha, way too much green.
Seems like yesterday you were replacing caps for the first time, now you're building component PCB. Great work!!!
ME | TV |
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff216/Sephiroth1975/General/StreetFighterIIChampionEditionJ-003.png) | (https://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13231.0;attach=1334;image) |
did you mean RGB?
i posted on anotehr thread already..but i moded a briefcase with component:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dGWvIKSUzM&feature=plcp
change R14 to 500ohmsI see two Q1's...
add cap
YPbPr (Plasma TV) | Composite (CRT TV) |
(https://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13231.0;attach=1342;image) | (https://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13231.0;attach=1344;image) |
I gather Steves set is suffering from some major lag there due to the difference in character animation taking place between the two tv sets. Lag looks to be significant too. But anyway, these shots with the phone camera are way too shity to make any good judgement calls on quality here. I'd rather stay reserved until work is finalized on the mod and someone with a decent camera can take some shots.
Any updates on this?
i need someone to build from the schematic for verification
you'd mainly just have to solder wires to the Luma, RGB and Sync pins, Composite, +5V, Ground, etc. and then to the RCA/S-Video outputsI just tried this and got nothing, I did have a 3904 in backward at first and one jumper missing, but all I get is black screen.
you'd mainly just have to solder wires to the Luma, RGB and Sync pins, Composite, +5V, Ground, etc. and then to the RCA/S-Video outputs ...I see no place for luma, composite, or +5v in to this circuit or svid out, did I miss some things or did you list the extra stuff for no reason? ;) I assume sync is used for S input, but a few posts in NW is talking about how it uses Y(luma) another mistake on the schematic or what? Where do you pull sync (or luma)?
Can I also assume it's ok to pull rgb straight from the 6260?
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff216/Sephiroth1975/General/PCE-RGB-pinout-chip_zpsf3ee9a95.jpg) | Yellow is for Sync, RGB pins are color matched. Exact: pin 51 - Blue pin 49 - Red pin 47 - Green pin 44 - Composite Sync |
I just tried this and got nothing, I did have a 3904 in backward at first and one jumper missing, but all I get is black screen.
Never done a RGB amp mod for a customer ??You may not believe it, but NO, never have actually gotten a customer to say yes lets do any video mod requiring rgb to start with, so far just adding composite and stereo jacks to the rear is as far as i've been asked to go, but I really want to sell what consoles I have with component outs.
So, you got 4 signal inputs going into this Component circuit and +5V (plus ground) for you to decide wherever to tap. Steve didn't make his schematic very detailed, but the +5V goes into the power line the transistors are sharing. I just made a quick redo:Holy crap! Why would you show gnd but not +5V!?!? LOL
Ok, I have video (http://youtu.be/qIJMu9OiOGc), but it's way too dark and maybe too heavy on green.
Can you tell me what voltages I should see from signal to gnd on rgb in's, and Y, Pb, and Pr outs?
Ok, I have video (http://youtu.be/qIJMu9OiOGc), but it's way too dark and maybe too heavy on green.
Can you tell me what voltages I should see from signal to gnd on rgb in's, and Y, Pb, and Pr outs?
if you need more trim r11, r12It doesn't need any more brightness, but trimming r11 down does make it brighter or wash it out is more like it, trimming down r12 makes it darker, trimming up washes it out just like with r11.
You need two 22 uF capacitors for it (16V rated or better). Solder one to pin 41 and ground, and the other to pin 43 and ground (negative ends to ground obviously if caps are polarized). They happen to be right near where the RGB and Sync pins are tapped, so might as well do it right after. Since the 6260 chip is on the bottom side of a US Turbo Duo, those small surface mount caps would work best in that case, see his 2nd photo here (http://pcengine.freeforums.org/download/file.php?id=72).
aluminum caps would likely need to be bigger
Were you getting jailbars with S-Video or a RGB connection ?? Anyway, that's awesome! Supposedly, this is only a problem when tapping RGB, but just checking.
I couldn't wait for the 22uf tantalum caps to come in so I built the circuit using 22uf polarize caps instead. I get flickers between light and dark and sometime TV screen goes blank. I don't know if its due to the polarize caps or something else. Still looks better than s-video.
http://youtu.be/NL8Gihy6--I
I must say the s-video from console is a force to reckon with it's the best looking built in s-video.
I am having an issue with Jailbars. ... Anyone have any suggestions?
I just tapped from the expansion port instead and man what a difference. The Jail bars look 10 times better. They still exist but now you have to look for them instead of them staring you right in the face.
I still wish I could get them to go away completely but I guess this is better than the way it was. Still very noticeable on blue backgrounds.
Can anyone confirm that jail bars are not present on DUOs? Maybe it's a US Tg16 issue for whatever reason?
I just installed the component board in a turbo express. I can't get rid of the jail bars. I tried grounding the two caps to hu6260, shield and component board but got the same results each time.
Anyone know the impedance for the RGB lines coming off the 6260 by chance?the lines are running open stock
Awesome thanks, currently making a board in Eagle to send to oshpark :).
Oh nevermind...read your post in the sales section.
Turbokon really should edit his post as he is generalizing that all other console will only require 1k extra resistance on the RGB inputs, when it's impedance dependent.
Awesome thanks, currently making a board in Eagle to send to oshpark :).
Oh nevermind...read your post in the sales section.
Turbokon really should edit his post as he is generalizing that all other console will only require 1k extra resistance on the RGB inputs, when it's impedance dependent.
Thesteve, correct me if I'm wrong, the 1kohm resistors are needed to help with the offset voltage cause by the genni's rgb lines outputting at a higher voltage then the pce. Impedance is something different, is the ratio of voltage to current in a ac circuit. This design operates in a dc, so impedance and resistance are the same. Theoretically, the additional 1kohm resistance should work with other rgb systems.
Got rid of the jailbars, added a 220uF and a 0.1uF bypass caps between 5v and GND on the circuit.
Awesome thanks, currently making a board in Eagle to send to oshpark :).
Oh nevermind...read your post in the sales section.
Turbokon really should edit his post as he is generalizing that all other console will only require 1k extra resistance on the RGB inputs, when it's impedance dependent.
Thesteve, correct me if I'm wrong, the 1kohm resistors are needed to help with the offset voltage cause by the genni's rgb lines outputting at a higher voltage then the pce. Impedance is something different, is the ratio of voltage to current in a ac circuit. This design operates in a dc, so impedance and resistance are the same. Theoretically, the additional 1kohm resistance should work with other rgb systems.
I'm curious about your design Turbokon, I notice thesteve's schematic on the front says 1K off the B, R lines, and 1K on the sync. But on your PCB you're using 2K on the R,B, 1K for G and 510 Ohm on the sync.
I can't tell from your genesis picture...but you added another resistor to the board, which is an additional 1K on RGB? So are you using 3K Ohm's off the R, B lines and 2K on G with the genesis?
Turbokon could you post the current Schematic since the first post doesn't have the correct caps or resistor values that you're obviously using in your design and what value trim pots are replacing what in the schematic. I'm trying to get this to work on a Saturn and it does work but green is too strong and the colors are off a bit, I have a 100ohm trim pot in the Y output but that only brightens the image.
Thanks for the picture, I have just about it almost figured out except I have no green. I can adjust blue and red no problem and I have sync but there is no green or little and the image is dark as hell, if I can get it to brighten up and add a bit more green it will be ok. What resistors or any other component affect green and luminance? I have made the board like the first post so it has the 220uf and 470uf and I'm using the 22uf electrolytic caps since I don't have them in ceramic. Thanks for any help you guys can give me.
Ok, after adding 1 kohm resistors to the RGB lines coming off the MVS unit I honestly am not seeing too much a change. Also, I am noticing more issues then I did prior on initial testing. Maybe you ran into these issues prior when doing Snes and Genesis, so I will lay these out for you and get your input.
1. I am noticing that on some screens red and blue are fine, but on other play screens or on RGB test screen in MVS service mode that depending on what the pots are set to, Red may be missing. I can jack up the red pot to make red appear in the RGB test, but when I do that and exit out to run a game red then appears way too strong.
2.Green is also bleached out and is more or less just a light tint color on the RGB test screen. Other times it will display more greenish, but not as colorful as it should be. This was both with and without the 1kohm resistor added.
This variation in color quality/intensity affects other colors too like yellow and purple colored objects. Objects that should be a solid yellow end up appearing bleached out quite a bit or orange'ish instead. It tends to vary from screen to screen.
Any thoughts on the above?
Try lowering the resistor value coming from the green in. The board has 511ohms on it not including the 1k for the SNES/genni boards.
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Looks good sensato . With your permission I would like to add your demo video to my website.
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Question about this mod, how does it look compared to RGB? I am really debating getting an XRGB-mini, or barring that a PVM, if I can find one, that being the case how does component look compared to RGB? Is it a big loss of quality going from RGB to component. The websites I was looking at say yes, but a lot of the screens in this thread look amazing.
Also, could this board work on a Saturn in theory?
ConHuevos described it best here :
https://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=14876.msg320310#msg320310
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So, I was updating this, saw you made quite a bit of changes, and then realized I don't understand the arrows to the two 10 KOhm resistors for mixing the -Y into Red and Blue that you did... What the heck is going on there ? Will have to simplify that as fewer people will understand that notation. Is it 5 K to the left, 5 K to the right, and the connecting point going to the base of the transistors ?
in this version as the sync is separate, the Y pot adjusts contrast perfectly
@TurboKon
What components are required to add into your existing rgb-comp pcb? Or is it imposable to mod and existing board i have?
......
I am using this on a north american TG-16, after crafting my own crimp housing with jumper cables to the expansion port, so im wondering if theres any improvement in the new design that might help me here.
I don't have any other CRT to test except VGA, and a composite upscaler, so im looking around for someone who might have one to test. I am also wondering if its a length issue of my component cables.
So I guess as a safe bet in trying the values you posted is to use a 5k pot on the 3 input lines in place of the 500ohm and 1k resistors, and adjust them close to the values you mentioned and take it from there. I will post back the results tomorrow after using the pots, thank you again.
My v2 board arrived today. I normally build alot of my mods but this one was so slim and sleek i decided to get the pre-made and forgo the building stage and go straight to the installing one. I'll post my thoughts on this board once i'm done installing & reviewing it.
(http://i62.tinypic.com/5bd0kz.jpg)
Awesome, notice R19, R20 and R21 are empty. Those are for other systems application. Thesteve already confirmed 75ohms there will work for the SNES and Genesis. We still need to test for other systems.
My test calls for more resistance on green so still wanna see what happens if you try that idea.
1) Red = 500/.299 = 1672 Ohms
2) Green = 500/.587 = 852 Ohms
3) Blue = 500/.114 = 4386 Ohms
Just pointing out on blue that there was a mistake on the schematic and you wound up building a board with it. If my test/idea is no good, you wanna default back to Steve's generic values and just up resistance on green in your case.
Also I heard that there are ways to make a similar circuit with an op-amp and some resistors, ever look into this steve?
Ace used a professional RGB Encoder IC (the BA7230LS) I believe, if it's the same guy I'm thinking of, and Steve's circuit design is something you can build from off-shelf RadioShack parts, 2n3904 transistors, caps, resistors and a diode, etc. Transistor video buffer amps/drivers will never perform as well as specialized ICs (likely with internal op-amps) that convert RGB-to-YPbPr. The thing about Steve's circuit is that anyone with some solder skills can build it and cheaply (shopping via eBay!). Not crazy about the pricing of turbo's boards built on the free design, but the full circuit is freely shown here for all of us Do-It-Yourselfers out there (unlike say JROK), so something to consider as far as pros/cons...
Actually, Ace is a cool guy and also released his circuit design, but you gotta buy a custom IC, that BA7230LS chip. Here goes for others:
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff216/Sephiroth1975/Tech/BA7230LS RGB to Component converter.jpg)
If you have enough solder skills, can buy all the parts and want a weekend project, it can be done. "Easily" is not my word, but it is something that requires patience and understanding of schematics, sure. The aim of this thread is to teach people how to do it themselves in principle and not take the easy way out of buying a pre-made board, as nice as it is. Anyway, I don't know the net cost of your boards, but I do know for what it is, what it does, versus what you can buy for the same amount of money, it's not much of a deal, so, just calling it like I see it.
another note, i know the TK board (my circuit) can do better then that on the genesis
during the circuit redesign i was switching between un-amped PCE and GENI SCART for my input
had good results with 75ohm and 220uf in the scart cable and 75ohm to ground after the cable
Lastcallhal, where are you getting your signals from? I tapped every signals off the CXA1145 chip on a model 1 genesis. I'm still using version 1 component board.
RE: Ace's circuit. That's a really old design. Here's the current design:
(http://i.imgur.com/So9lYtu.png)
I actually just made a board through OSHPark today that got sent off to fabrication:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v445/lastcallhall/RGBtoComponentBoardV22_zpsac0616cd.jpg)
In a few weeks I hope to see how they turn out, as I've been using an older design prior to today.
Looks like low voltage to me. Might try a different voltage source. I think thesteve design has a higher power consumption then acer's,
These are soldered by hand correct? I mean seriously, this thing looks like it was done on a machine! If they are done by a machine ok nvm... but... What size solder diameter are you using?
I am using .032 and I think now that it is too large to be using for super clean solder joints like what I see on this board.
well i have a GBS8200 and a version2 handy so i tried some cards
didnt get a full screen flash on anything, but sync was solid on everything i had handy
LEGEND OF SUSANO has a 3/4 screen flash and it was solid
well i have a GBS8200 and a version2 handy so i tried some cards
didnt get a full screen flash on anything, but sync was solid on everything i had handy
LEGEND OF SUSANO has a 3/4 screen flash and it was solid
Version I have here is a V2 I believe. It is installed in a Ten No Koe 2. In Side Arms it will happen on the wheel boss if I remember right. On like Neutopia it will happen during the lightning flash at the temple when you first start the game. Any idea on how to fix it? My Toshiba via component in copes with it much better, but the GBS via component in will lose synch for a brief second when that kind of flashing occurs.
well i have a GBS8200 and a version2 handy so i tried some cards
didnt get a full screen flash on anything, but sync was solid on everything i had handy
LEGEND OF SUSANO has a 3/4 screen flash and it was solid
Version I have here is a V2 I believe. It is installed in a Ten No Koe 2. In Side Arms it will happen on the wheel boss if I remember right. On like Neutopia it will happen during the lightning flash at the temple when you first start the game. Any idea on how to fix it? My Toshiba via component in copes with it much better, but the GBS via component in will lose synch for a brief second when that kind of flashing occurs.
try adding a cap across the diode. (diode is marked D1, the cap will be + to stripe and will never see over 1V)
that should improve the luma stability and may be enough to get you there
the 1 i tested the GBS on has a 22uf across the diode and is a ver2 board
looks like i said it wrong the first time anyway
Tried both the 22uf cap on the diode, then the 1k resistor from sync to ground. Neither method had any affect. Sync still drops on the GBS when the lightning flashes on Neutopia at the start of the game, and kinda slightly wavers on my Toshiba. The issue on the Toshiba is more of a nitpick, but the GBS thing is pretty annoying since it cripples gameplay on Side Arms on some of the bosses.