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NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG-16/TE/TurboDuo Sales & Trades => Topic started by: wolfman on January 14, 2014, 06:58:24 PM
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Hi folks,
today I received a strange email from China.
I was asking for a quote on the 220a laser, and somebody sent me an offer for the 320b (which indicates that it is a more vibration-tolerant version). He clearly stated that one has to REMOVE the flexible connector from the 220a and solder it in place of the original one on the 320b.
Will post pics of this procedure, as he sent me them as a photo manual.
Thought this might be of interest to some. And since it is also widely available - some might try this.
Best,
Wolf
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I heard this too, from Aliexpress, their engrish is beyond and even if the state it they were unable too show how, I discussed it with Keith at the end of the summer but he hadn't heard or knew anything about it.
So if you have pictures do share as it will open up a new way too get fresh lasers for the CD-ROM2 and TGCD
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So, here they are. As you can see from the pictures, one pcb also has to be desoldered from the laser it is connected to. Doesn´t look that hard - just some extra work.
Had to split it into several posts, as I am not allowed to add anything 180kb+ in size...
Part 1 + 2
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Part 3 + 4
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Part 5 +6
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Part 7 + 8
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Part 9 + 10
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Had to split it into several posts, as I am not allowed to add anything 180kb+ in size...
You can use an external photo hosting service (like flickr) to get around the image size limits and quality hit. Embedded pics hosted here kinda stink.
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Embedded pics hosted here kinda stink.
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Hard language, don´t you think?
Embedded pics hosted elsewhere (and then removed because of closed accounts) REALLY stink, cause over time you don´t have access to them anymore.
I prefer having them IN the forum.
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I mean the system limits are what stink. If someone is going to take time to take nice pics, I'd rather see 'em full size and not heavily compressed (and save Aaron the bandwidth too).
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Well, ok I get your point.
But the pics aren´t going to get any bigger than this - they´re already as big as can be, so...
On the other hand I´ve experienced so many forums where you don´t find attached pix anymore, because of closed down accounts or suspended domains. Having them IN the forum is the only real solution to this. Or putting it on a separate ftp server, that is permanently linked to the forum.
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I have to ask this question and it might seem dumb but, if you look at the ribbon cable differences the main difference is that the ribbons on the 320B lens have one extra pin on them. When looking at the extra pin you may notice that there is no lead or connection going to it. So can't you just use a pair of scissors to cut off the extra pin that isn't used and not have to swap out the ribbon cables?
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I have to ask this question and it might seem dumb but, if you look at the ribbon cable differences the main difference is that the ribbons on the 320B lens have one extra pin on them. When looking at the extra pin you may notice that there is no lead or connection going to it. So can't you just use a pair of scissors to cut off the extra pin that isn't used and not have to swap out the ribbon cables?
Thats a good question - I don´t know. You might have to compare the dimensions of the leads in the cable...I already thought of that myself. But IF there are differences in size then you would have to switch the cables.
I havent had both units in my hands to compare, just the pictures.
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Imagine if it really is as simple as snipping off the extra pin! haha
I'm going to order one off amazon and find out!
-=EDIT=-
The ribbon cable is different...
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that procedure is what i have to do to get lasers for Panasonic 3DOs
right number comes in 3 configs, and you cant get the one you need
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I've just looked at a few more pictures and it really looks like you can just cut the unused pin off of each ribbon. I just ordered one as well.
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the main ribbon cable looks like its missing the notch/hole that locks it in place.
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I received a KSS-320B pickup, and I can confirm that it definitely DOESN´T match. The ribbon cable is way too small in width, so one would have to swap all cables.
Can´t say though if there´s another variation of it out there...
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With that guide you got you can try out the cable exchange and tell us if that worked =)
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With that guide you got you can try out the cable exchange and tell us if that worked =)
Nope. I don´t have a soldering tip small enough for that...someone else maybe?
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But your's can have the tip exchanged.
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But your's can have the tip exchanged.
Nope. Not with this one...
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Could you please post a pick of the two larger lens cables next to each other? I just want to see the difference.
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Nice find Wolfman, Did you get the unit yet and if so does it work in the actual system? I read that soldering the ribbon cable is crazy tough.
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Could you please post a pick of the two larger lens cables next to each other? I just want to see the difference.
Yes, I will do it on the weekend.
I read that soldering the ribbon cable is crazy tough.
Haven´t tried it yet, as I don´t have a matching solder tip.
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So, today I was able to have a look into the matter. What I found out is the following:
KSS-320b in fact IS compatible to KSS-220a, but one has to exchange all the cables from the KSS-220a to the 320b version. This isn´t an easy thing and can be time consuming. I spend half a day checking the procedure and playing around to get it done, including building it into a drive. I was able to play music from CDRs as well as from original CDs. I did not test it for gameplay, as I was using my CDR-35 as a test base (which isn´t capable of playing games...). But I guess it will load games as well with a little tweaking of the pots.
At least I ended up with a working FrankenLaser :D
KSS-220a prep:
First you have to unsolder the cable leading to the lens head, which is rather easy. Once you removed the four solder tabs (careful!) you can GENTLY pull it off, as it is only glued to the cable below (which leads inside the head).
Second you need to unsolder the 3 contacts from the laser diode. This is very finicky (at least for me) and needs a very quiet hand. I used a fine braid to remove the excessive (original) solder from the pins. Take you time, as the pins are long and there is no way around desoldering! If you are not careful enough you can easily burn the cable - goodbye new laser! Then unscrew the little board right next to it holding the famous laser pot.
Third you need to remove the whole plate (yes!) holding the efm sensor. The plate is glued to the metal body of the laser unit. You can scrape of the glue with a sharpie and pry it of the body. You will see a little hole and inside you see a tiny tiny tiny sensor. Do not touch the surface, as those sensors will be responsible for the alignment of your laser on track! You better mark the position of the hole on the plate, as you will have to glue it onto the new laser unit! If you don´t align it in the right position you will never be able to re-align your new laser...no games - sorry!
KSS-320b:
Now unsolder the cable leading to laser head like you did on the KSS-220a, gently pry it off afterwards and be very very careful not do damage the leftover cable leading to the inside!
Then clip off the cable from the diode and scrape off the EFM sensor, as you don´t need them anymore - remember you are going to use the cable from the 220a!
Now carefully desolder the cable end from the Diode and clean the contact so that they are as thin as possible - you need to slide the cable end from the 220a onto the 3 contacts without damaging them!
No comes the hard part:
I recommend you start with sliding the cable on the contacts. If this goes wrong you´re f*cked - so it doesnt make sense to begin with the easier stuff first :wink:
Carefully solder the contacts, then screw the tiny board with the laser pot on (remember?).
Next you need to glue the EFM board onto the body so that its hole matches the hole on the outside of the new laser unit. Since you´ve marked the hole position on the outside this shouldn´t be an issue. I recommend you use epoxy and apply it where the original glue was sticked to. This will make it easier for you. I also recommend that you start with one side and wait until the epoxy has dried up, and then go for the other side. This will leave you with enough headroom for correct adjustment.
If you finished this part, then its downhill - you just have to solder the remaining cable to the other side on the lens head - and you´re finished :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
You still will have to build it into a unit again, and then comes the part of readjusting - which will be timeconsuming, because your EFM sensor isn´t factory-aligned. This means you need extensive tweaking of VR103 and VR104 (which are responsible for this). In my case VR101 and VR102 almost didn´t change. So I guess it will be the same for you...
I hope this will be help to some of you. The KSS-320b is a cheap cheap laser and can be head for next to nothing. If you happen to have a dead KSS-220a, and you´re willing to test your skills - then I suggest you give it a try.
EDIT: Can we make this a sticky? I would add a few photos as well. I think it would be a good tutorial for all interested...
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sadly ive seen more torn cables then dead lasers on these
also if at all possible dont remove the EFM plate from the new laser
they can be extremely hard to realign.
note that the diode isnt too hard to replace if its your issue
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sadly ive seen more torn cables then dead lasers on these
also if at all possible dont remove the EFM plate from the new laser
they can be extremely hard to realign.
note that the diode isnt too hard to replace if its your issue
I have seen no way NOT to remove the EFM plate - the solder spots are extremely tiny and the cable is so incredible thin that I was in fear or tearing or burning it. Thats why I did that way. I´ll see if it turned out ok when I will be using the unit for games.
How would I remove the diode? There is so much glue in there on all sides that its almost impossible not to damage it....
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the diodes are hard to remove, but dont require realignment
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i just checked my laser pile (dead lasers)
i have a KSS220a with the ribbons removed (EFM plate untouched)
note the KSS162 EFM plate is different and cant be separated from ribbon
the ribbon swap/replacement on the 220a is not hard (done before)
use solder wick to remove solder, and allow sensor to cool between pins
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I guess this is good for anyone replacing a kss-220 but I've noticed just like you have that more lasers are dead due to broken worn cables then they are from the laser itself actually being bad.
Hopefully years from now someone will put up for sale a whole bunch of old stock 220 or 225 found in a store room somewhere like what happened a year or so ago.
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I'm not sure how many they have, but I found a place in PA that has some 220a's in stock for $30. I got one for my CD player recently. https://cceparts.com/productdetail.asp?a={87B11986-BEBA-479C-B782-ABAD88AA7912}&PartNumberKey=RPKSS220A
The laser seems to work, but I'm still not able to get it to read cd's. I already did a full cap replacement, and the gears are fine, but it still just spins with a "0" on the red display. I've been trying to adjust the POTs a little to no avail. Is there a guide to how to go about adjusting them, I don't want to damage anything?
I really want to get this thing working even if it means paying someone else to fix it. I let my nephew's play with my old NES, and they loved it. They'd really be blown away by this old TG-16.
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start with a pressed audio disc
the pots centered
the right pot turn CW till the disc stops, then CCW till it starts again
left pot set for quiet run (no chatter)
then work left to right
once it reads (shows 1) it gets easier
ultimate goal is minimum input current (drive noise)
repeat with CDR once pressed CD plays perfect
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Sorry to barge in :) - Is the KSS220a suitable for all white CD-ROM2 models? Thanks!
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white and black the same
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Thanks Steve. Guess will buy two of these units.
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I'm not sure how many they have, but I found a place in PA that has some 220a's in stock for $30. I got one for my CD player recently. https://cceparts.com/productdetail.asp?a={87B11986-BEBA-479C-B782-ABAD88AA7912}&PartNumberKey=RPKSS220A
The laser seems to work, but I'm still not able to get it to read cd's. I already did a full cap replacement, and the gears are fine, but it still just spins with a "0" on the red display. I've been trying to adjust the POTs a little to no avail. Is there a guide to how to go about adjusting them, I don't want to damage anything?
I really want to get this thing working even if it means paying someone else to fix it. I let my nephew's play with my old NES, and they loved it. They'd really be blown away by this old TG-16.
Unfortunately they don´t seem to ship to Europe :(
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If when you checkout you select Paypal it lets you select your country and it will modify shipping accordingly. Just to be sure, I have sent them an email :)
Will let you know when they reply!
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I have a few new KSS-225a lasers still if any of you guys still need them.
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I am interested sending PM.
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start with a pressed audio disc
the pots centered
the right pot turn CW till the disc stops, then CCW till it starts again
left pot set for quiet run (no chatter)
then work left to right
once it reads (shows 1) it gets easier
ultimate goal is minimum input current (drive noise)
repeat with CDR once pressed CD plays perfect
Thanks, but it still won't read. :( I think I might try that guy on ebay, Turbografxfan.
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I'm not sure how many they have, but I found a place in PA that has some 220a's in stock for $30. I got one for my CD player recently. https://cceparts.com/productdetail.asp?a={87B11986-BEBA-479C-B782-ABAD88AA7912}&PartNumberKey=RPKSS220A
The laser seems to work, but I'm still not able to get it to read cd's. I already did a full cap replacement, and the gears are fine, but it still just spins with a "0" on the red display. I've been trying to adjust the POTs a little to no avail. Is there a guide to how to go about adjusting them, I don't want to damage anything?
I really want to get this thing working even if it means paying someone else to fix it. I let my nephew's play with my old NES, and they loved it. They'd really be blown away by this old TG-16.
Thanks for the link, i've spent loads of time searching for these :-)
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I'm not sure how many they have, but I found a place in PA that has some 220a's in stock for $30. I got one for my CD player recently. https://cceparts.com/productdetail.asp?a={87B11986-BEBA-479C-B782-ABAD88AA7912}&PartNumberKey=RPKSS220A
The laser seems to work, but I'm still not able to get it to read cd's. I already did a full cap replacement, and the gears are fine, but it still just spins with a "0" on the red display. I've been trying to adjust the POTs a little to no avail. Is there a guide to how to go about adjusting them, I don't want to damage anything?
I really want to get this thing working even if it means paying someone else to fix it. I let my nephew's play with my old NES, and they loved it. They'd really be blown away by this old TG-16.
Thanks for the link, i've spent loads of time searching for these :-)
Same here. I'd been searching deep google intermittently for over a year before I'd run across it. Boy was I happy when the site was actually legit.