PCEngineFans.com - The PC Engine and TurboGrafx-16 Community Forum
NEC TG-16/TE/TurboDuo => TG-16/TE/TurboDuo Discussion => Topic started by: Michael Helgeson on December 30, 2006, 08:09:36 PM
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Not that everyone will find this useful but considering this info is becoming harder and harder to find Im guessing so I am posting it here. The info came from different sources,I do not remember who anymore. For those in the know how Im sure they can figure out how to do the mod easily. If nothing else id like this info to stay fresh so that if at all possible people dont assume they have to pay 50 bucks for a 8-10 dollar mod just because they cant access the info on how to do it.
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a66/Amakusa666/pcengineregionmodjpeg-1.jpg)
Here is a better schematic of the 8-pole switch.
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a66/Amakusa666/8-polespecdoc.gif)
Switch can be purchased here:
http://www.seniorindustries.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=82MS2R1
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Good job, mate. You're absolutely right, info for this can be incredibly hard to find. I only know of one other site that shows how to do this.
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Although some mods may not seem very hard to the people who can do them, I'm one of the schmucks who may never learn enough to do any myself and really wish that more people offered to do them(PCE and otherwise) for $$$, at any price.
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Typically if you can do a composite AV mod you can do a region mod like for a Saturn or TG-16. Its still solder,its still wires,give or take a few extras. I pretty much learned everything on my own with no technical training from any tech school. You just get to that point where you ask yourself if you want to rely on others to do these things forever,or chance paying some jerkoff serious cash for a simple task.
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I've modded many consoles from SS to GC to whatever and there is no way in hell I'd do this mod for $8. Just because it requires nothing but a $2 switch doesn't mean its a $2 mod. Charging $8 for a mod is totally stupid anyway. You might as well just do it for free. I mean, what are you really going to do with eight measly dollars? I think $50 is totally fair if the job is professionally done.
Where I work the shop charges $300 for me to adjust the valves in a Civic, and in all honesty I consider that a much easier and stress-free task that a PCE region hack. I mod my own systems, and the systems of friends for free but if some random internet bastard wanted me to do it then I'd need some financial incentive to stay in for the night.
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Good info Michael. More details of grounding pin 29 of HuC6280 for Japanese systems can be found here:
http://pages.interlog.com/~daves/pce_info/jpncnvrt.txt
And I must agree with Zeta. I've only modded my personal systems so I don't have too much experience yet on this particular mod, and I'm sure I'd get better/faster if I did more, but I wouldn't do it for 50 bucks - I'd consider it a waste of my time to do it for only that much.
Hey, but if anyone's willing to do a decent job for =<$50, more power to you. I'm sure you'd get quite a few orders from folks in these forums.
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That's an okay guide, but this mod is better. Doesn't require that nasty switch.
http://mbrandel.vizionaires.net/?page_id=48
In German, but easy to understand.
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I don't think its too easy to understand for kinda noob modders unless you speak german but yea I knew of this one that uses the ICs. But yea if you don't like switches its def the best route to go,you'd just have to be comfortable looking at the schematic and walking yourself trough it with no translated instruction.
And so it doesn't get out of contrast,this isn't a sales pitch,or a thread to get someone a mod business started. This thread should be strictly used to keep the information active,so that someone wouldn't have to pay $50 to have someone do the mod just because he couldn't find the info on how to do it. In other words if the person has the ability to do it himself and is only lacking the info as to how to do so then the info should be free and available,not kept secret or horded. And if you have links to post for more info or better ways to do it,def post it here,the more the merrier.
But since price is mettioned by a couple of you:
If however I was to do either mod for someone,a more fair pricing would be $50-60 for the german IC mod,because that one does require more work and parts,but the switch one Id say $30 is more in a fair price range,because honestly,your only soldering some wire to some pins you cut and some solder spots. Its not really hard,or exhausting,and would take maybe 1-2 hours labor at most. That and I mean,there is a difference between helping the gaming community that your a member of out or just taking advantage of their lack of ability. If I was doing it for a friend,Id only charge cost of parts,not labor,because I mean,doing that kinda stuff is a hobby anyway.
And as I said,the switch mod is easy,and honestly Id rather encourage people if possible to learn how to do the stuff on their own and keep the info available to anyone that needs it.
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the pictures make it seem simple enough, but I'd be afraid I was missing vital details.
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The IC mod doesn't seem too bad, but all it really does is save you the headache of finding a decent 8PDT switch off the shelf. But for that, you pay by 1) needing more parts, 2) having to solder more in order to build that circuit board.
But as I've said before in another post somewhere, you *may* have to go with the IC mod for the Turbo express, as the commonly available 8PDT switch (the 3" push-button switch) may be too big to fit nicely in the express.
I guess either way, they work just as same. Having an option is always nice.
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Actually I didn't look at the german mod well enough,as there is a 3 pole switch present,which Im guessing would be to switch between the ics??? if its required then I guess your stuck with a switch no matter what. Since I cant read german I can only speculate. Yea on the TG Express mod,ive seen people do something using very small ribbon cables and a clamp,but that isn't all that practical I don't suppose,cause the thin ribbon cable could wear and break.
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And so it doesn't get out of contrast,this isn't a sales pitch,or a thread to get someone a mod business started. This thread should be strictly used to keep the information active,so that someone wouldn't have to pay $50 to have someone do the mod just because he couldn't find the info on how to do it. In other words if the person has the ability to do it himself and is only lacking the info as to how to do so then the info should be free and available,not kept secret or horded. And if you have links to post for more info or better ways to do it,def post it here,the more the merrier.
But since price is mettioned by a couple of you:
If however I was to do either mod for someone,a more fair pricing would be $50-60 for the german IC mod,because that one does require more work and parts,but the switch one Id say $30 is more in a fair price range,because honestly,your only soldering some wire to some pins you cut and some solder spots. Its not really hard,or exhausting,and would take maybe 1-2 hours labor at most. That and I mean,there is a difference between helping the gaming community that your a member of out or just taking advantage of their lack of ability. If I was doing it for a friend,Id only charge cost of parts,not labor,because I mean,doing that kinda stuff is a hobby anyway.
If you were doing it for a stranger though, it does take a lot of time to pick up(if necessary) a package, unpack, mod and repack it and then take it to a post office to ship again. Unless you've got some kind of business going where you're shipping stuff everyday. It needs to be worthwhile for someone to do it.
But I agree that it would be nice if everyone could either do any mod themselves or had a friend that could do it for them.
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I'm a ebay seller,constantly selling and shipping stuff,either myself or I have a friend who does packing and shipping for me if I get too overwhelmed. Typically to pack a game system it takes 5-10 mins,maybe less depending on how fast I cut trough the tape. To unpack it takes less. If possible the packing material used to ship something to me,if still in really good shape can be reused which eliminates any cost,plus I get small to medium sized boxes for free,and typically always have packing material around because of all the packages that arrive to me weekly.
But I mean if someone wants to list all that as labor I guess they could,thats more a personal preference. Some people will,some people wont.
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Actually I didn't look at the german mod well enough,as there is a 3 pole switch present,which Im guessing would be to switch between the ics??? if its required then I guess your stuck with a switch no matter what. Since I cant read german I can only speculate. Yea on the TG Express mod,ive seen people do something using very small ribbon cables and a clamp,but that isn't all that practical I don't suppose,cause the thin ribbon cable could wear and break.
Yeah, there's still a switch either way. To the end user, the logic of the black box doesn't matter, cause both mods work exactly the same way for them. ICs basically do all the rerouting that the 8PDT switch would do.
But another small advantage for the ic mods - since it looks like you have the option of using just about any ol' SPDT switch you can find in radio shack, you can put in any type of switch you like - rocker, pushbutton, slide, toggle, etc... But with the 8PDT option, you get what you can find and like it!
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BTW, for those of you that wanna try going about modding, the Saturn is a good one to start with. You only need 6 wires and a very common DPDT switch. As long as you follow the instructions that are around the net, the mod is pretty simple and it's actually quite difficult to botch it up completely. And since this mod also uses a switch, it's the perfect warmup for the TG16/PCE mod, which is quite a bit more work.
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Yea the Saturn is easy,off the top of my memory I was thinking its Jp6-7,10-11. Been over 2 years since I did one,but the jumpers are pretty easy to locate.Once Im looking at one I can do it,don't need a guide or anything. From 1998-2002 I think I did about 25-30 Saturns. All you need is a DPDT rocker switch,solder,wires and a sharp blade to cut two traces if you want a region switch. If all you want to do is swap a region completely all you need to do is cut 2 traces to open 2 of the jp jumpers and solder the other 2 together. The worst part is just depending on which Saturn model you have,as the jumpers are in different spots depending on the version.
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Bump. Go back to the top of page 1,more info added including place to buy switch.
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I think you need to add to your sig. Its not big enough.
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Yea me too,not sure what else to add though,then again,it probably looks really big to anyone who can only use 800x600 or 1024x768....
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You can also order an 8PDT push-button switch from here.
http://www.surplussales.com/Switches/SWPushB-1.html
Part#: (SWP) 120SA.1X11
(http://www.surplussales.com/Images/Switches/Pushbutton/swp-120sa1x11.jpg)
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Good switch,but they only let you do a minimum of a $10 order,before shipping. Not sure how much Im willing to spend,prob would be fine if I needed 2 of them,or maybe a group order.
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Just wondering out loud for those who may want to mod a SuperGrafx system. I don't know if anyone has even thought about this very minor issue (but annoying to some - like me!), but if anywhere, I'm sure this is the place to find such people.
According to multimods.com, 2 games will not work correctly with a modded SuperGrafx for some reason.
* Certain games have known issues with region mods on the SuperGrafx system:
1. Aldynes - plays fine, but if you allow the system to go into Attract Mode (demo at beginning), it will freeze.
2. Space Harrier - game apparently loads and then quickly freezes.
The ONLY reason that I can think of Aldynes freezing up is because of the pin 29 ground mod (which would be required only to play US games, not JP games). This is because once the switch is set to JP mode, the whole entire logic of the system is EXACTLY the same as an unmodded system, MINUS the aforementioned pin 29 of HuC6280.
And I'm not sure which version of Space Harrier he was mentioning, but if it's the JP version that freezes, then it's got to be the same issue as above, unless Space Harrier for some reason has an inherent compatibility issues with the SuperGrafx. If both or just the US version of the Space Harrier has this problem, I can only guess it'd be some kind of internal compatibility issue with the SGX and would give up on this problem.
Now, if not grounding pin 29 cures the problems the above two games, then one can either:
1. Use an SPDT switch just to either ground or not to ground pin 29 of HuC6280.
2. Add a DPDT switch instead of the SPDT switch to the ic mod, and have one side control the ics like it normally would, and the other side control the ground of pin 29.
3. Find a 9PDT(!) switch and do the same as #2. (Can you even buy a 9PDT switch? You might have to custom build this one, which in case, might as well go with option 2!)
Okay, so maybe this is a whole lotta rambling for just 2 games, but if the above works, this would be the ONLY true way to get a system that plays 100% of HuCard games. That's gotta be worth something, no? :P
Actually, I'll go post this in gamesx forums too, to see if anyone knows/has thought about this issue...
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Yeah this is good to know, but I have no problem paying for the mod either. I could do it myself, but for the $50 it costs I'd rather let somebody do a professional job. D-Lite did a SWEET job on my white Duo, so it was worth every penny.
The AV stuff though I was going to try myself, I'd love to get my Duo hooked up through component.
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I wouldn't mind doing it,but I have ZERO experience with the insides of a SuperGrafx. I only know one person personally and its doubtful he will ever pop his open cause its in near mint condition. Without prior knowledge of how the insides look I wouldn't be sure just how much empty space I had for said switch so possibly both would have to be ordered in advance just incase.
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According to multimods.com, 2 games will not work correctly with a modded SuperGrafx for some reason.
Yeah, that is puzzling, and I have no idea why this would be the case if the mod itself was perfectly performed.
At the time though, what's with that one RPG demo disk with TM2, and Dragon Slayer demos on it? I sold mine years ago but from what I remember the TM2 portion of the demo does not work on US systems...and this is a CD I'm talking about.
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According to multimods.com, 2 games will not work correctly with a modded SuperGrafx for some reason.
Yeah, that is puzzling, and I have no idea why this would be the case if the mod itself was perfectly performed.
At the time though, what's with that one RPG demo disk with TM2, and Dragon Slayer demos on it? I sold mine years ago but from what I remember the TM2 portion of the demo does not work on US systems...and this is a CD I'm talking about.
Although I haven't tried it in years, I think that that might've happened to me as well, although I do remember playing the TMII demo at some point.
It's probably just a weird bug like Alterd Beast CD.
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Things that make you go hmmm....
Anyway, I do have a SuperGrafx system, but I haven't modded, nor even opened it yet. But looking at it from the outside, it seems to have plenty of room to squeeze to in what you need. It certainly should have more space than a CoreGrafx, and I managed to squeeze in an 8PDT switch in there (though barely!).
The problem is that I don't have either Aldynes nor Space Harrier to test out my theory. For Aldynes, it's pretty much a clear yes-no outcome. Since it's a jp only supergrafx game, there's isn't many different combinations to test. It'll work, or it won't, on a supergrafx with pin 29 not grounded.
Space Harrier, however, has a lot of different possible combinations. If anyone can help me so I can narrow down the possible reasons for the problem... Please let me know if you played:
1. US or JP Space Harrier on any modded Japanese PC-Engine systems.
2. JP Space Harrier on a US TG-16/T-Duo, either modded or with a converter.
3. JP Space Harrier on a SuperGrafx, modded or not (and the system switch settings on both normal PCE mode and SuperGrafx mode).
4. US Space Harrier on modded SuperGrafx (once again, on both PCE/SGX settings)
And if so, did it play okay? Did you get any of the freezing that was mentioned above?
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Things that make you go hmmm....
Anyway, I do have a SuperGrafx system, but I haven't modded, nor even opened it yet. But looking at it from the outside, it seems to have plenty of room to squeeze to in what you need. It certainly should have more space than a CoreGrafx, and I managed to squeeze in an 8PDT switch in there (though barely!).
The problem is that I don't have either Aldynes nor Space Harrier to test out my theory. For Aldynes, it's pretty much a clear yes-no outcome. Since it's a jp only supergrafx game, there's isn't many different combinations to test. It'll work, or it won't, on a supergrafx with pin 29 not grounded.
Space Harrier, however, has a lot of different possible combinations. If anyone can help me so I can narrow down the possible reasons for the problem... Please let me know if you played:
1. US or JP Space Harrier on any modded Japanese PC-Engine systems.
2. JP Space Harrier on a US TG-16/T-Duo, either modded or with a converter.
3. JP Space Harrier on a SuperGrafx, modded or not (and the system switch settings on both normal PCE mode and SuperGrafx mode).
4. US Space Harrier on modded SuperGrafx (once again, on both PCE/SGX settings)
And if so, did it play okay? Did you get any of the freezing that was mentioned above?
It turns out that I don't have either version of Space Harrier.
But if you think it might help at all, I can try each rom through my flash card on my modded Duo RX and one of my unmodded Turbo systems. If you think it's make a difference, I could see if the flash card will fit into my kisado to play the PCE version on my Turbo Duo.
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It turns out that I don't have either version of Space Harrier.
But if you think it might help at all, I can try each rom through my flash card on my modded Duo RX and one of my unmodded Turbo systems. If you think it's make a difference, I could see if the flash card will fit into my kisado to play the PCE version on my Turbo Duo.
Hey, that'd be sweet, if it's not too much trouble for ya!
For those of you that know what I'm saying, here it is:
*original image removed per request and replaced with this one*
(http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o90/thumpin_termis/supergragx_fix_theory.gif)
Essentially, this is the same as the two-ic mod, with a DPDT switch thrown in the end, to control the ground of pin 29. However, since I don't know which switch position is JP and which is US in the ic mod, it's possible that the position of the two arrows (ground & PCB of pin 29) may need to be swapped. It's either one way or the other.
It really isn't that much change to the ic mod - a different switch and 3 extra wires. If done correctly, the worst possible outcome is that it'll just add a few wires to the mod. At best, it'll solve the issues with the two games, making SuperGrafx 100% compatible with everything! :dance:
If this mod doesn't solve the SuperGrafx issue, I can't imagine what else it'd be... I'd guess it'd be some compatibility issue between the PC Engine and the SuperGrafx that wasn't previously known...
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@ Michael Helgeson
@ thumpin_termis
Those photos and graphics are subject to my copyright. A use without previous arrangement is not allowed.
To the modification: Pin 9 from the MC14551B are only “Enable” Pins. I think, it is >maybe< possible to only connect lifted Pin 29 (from the Hudson-Chip) to the enable Pin 9 from the ICs.
If you have a US System you can solder like this schematic, for the Japanese systems you exchance the wire diagram on one side. I mean, instead A --> H, you solder H -->A sequence in reverse >only< on the connector >or< pcb side.
Here is the datasheet:
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/11991/ONSEMI/MC14551B.html
Bye Markus
Owner from http://mbrandel.vizionaires.net/
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Those photos and graphics are subject to my copyright.
prove it.
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Haha what an a$$hole. Hey this msg is COPYRIGHT ME and you can't qoute it without my permission.
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Haha what an a$$hole. Hey this msg is COPYRIGHT ME and you can't qoute it without my permission.
I dare you to sue me. :dance:
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Those photos and graphics are subject to my copyright.
prove it.
Dude, it is true. Why the hell would he lie about such a thing? www.nfggames.com/forum (http://www.nfggames.com/forum)
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Dude, it is true. Why the hell would he lie about such a thing?
1) I don't buy the idea that he discovered 'his' pics here and got an account just to publicly complain. (if it were me, I would contact the board administrators privately.)
2) Even if that were the case, I do not see any copyright notices on the referenced pages or on the pictures themselves. He may have intended to copyright the images, but failed to do so. His problem, not ours.
3) Even if it is our problem, it is our right to discuss the subject and make reference to it. An analogy would be if the movie 'super size me' could not mention McDonalds by name.
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I linked to his site in this thread, and he saw that people were referred to his site from here. He checked it out and noticed MH used his pics and took credit for it.
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Not that everyone will find this useful but considering this info is becoming harder and harder to find Im guessing so I am posting it here. The info came from different sources,I do not remember who anymore.
doesn't look like taking credit for it to me.
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Same here prove it :P
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I didn't take credit for anything. What a f*cking a$$hole. I gathered info and placed it on a cd-r for later. I didn't make the mod,also i didn't see anywhere for anything to not be re-used without permission. Also seems like Seldane is working against this thread by trying to start shit,cause what he said above really makes me wonder.
As I said The info came from different sources,I do not remember who anymore.
There is nothing there stating I was taking claim for anything,I also said for anyone to add what they could. This is entirely why I want to keep the info around,because a$$holes think they own it,try to horde it to themselves and their tiny groups,or just use it for means of profit. f*ck him and f*ck Seldane for making such a obvious blantant lie about me and trying to hurt this thread. You don't like me,fine,but what your trying to do doesn't hurt me,it only attempts to keep handy info away from others who could use it. Keranu should remove Moosmanns account,for joining to flame,and for not being able to spell Moose. Dumbass.
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I also didn't know you could copyright reverse engineering.
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1) I don't buy the idea that he discovered 'his' pics here and got an account just to publicly complain. (if it were me, I would contact the board administrators privately.)
3) Even if it is our problem, it is our right to discuss the subject and make reference to it. An analogy would be if the movie 'super size me' could not mention McDonalds by name.
He didn't create an account just to complain, he also provided further comments and advice.
I don't know much about copyrights, but journalism and satire are different than reprinting someone's work.
Anyway, he seems helpful and is probably a nice guy. Remember it's very easy to take something the wrong way on forums like this.
On a different subject, what do you guys think it would take to start collecting and house this kind of technical advice in one place? With all of the Duos breaking down and the skyrocketing prices for Duo, cd-rom2 systems and import converters, more and more of us will be attempting to fix these problems ourselves. I’d kill for a website with things like the lens replacement walk-through, the TE sound fix, system mod schematics, and a fix-it forum all in one place.
Maybe I’ll do it myself someday if I have time.
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BTW, I'm all about using a some 'strong language' when the time is right, but there's been a lot of F-bombs and nasty insults going around lately. It makes me less interested in these forums.
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Really??? I coulda swore his first post on the forums was this
@ Michael Helgeson
@ thumpin_termis
Those photos and graphics are subject to my copyright. A use without previous arrangement is not allowed.
Which is pretty much saying remove the info because I don't like to share and Im a jerk. he didnt join here and introduce himself properly,Seldane pointed him to this,Seldane seems to have said something along the lines of "Michael is taking credit for said work",which I wasn't, and I consider that to be pretty petty and vile by Seldane. Seldane also didnt mettion Thumpin-termis,which tells me he's directly trying to start shit with me because I think Termis was posting info and pics too. Seldane was the first to link to this german guys mod,this tells me he probably contacted the guy directly to try to start shit.
I also see no problem with any of it. No one was taking credit for anything. I also checked and saw no copyright notices on any pictures. I usually check for this if at all possible. I am also pretty sure his mod and pictures are not copyrighted in the USA,as you can't copy right reverse engineering here in our country. So pretty much,I say screw him and Seldane both. Go to hell. I'm laughing at you both,and Seldane,your a worm. I think you led this guy purposely to believe someone was taking credit for something he did in hopes of starting shit.
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BTW, I'm all about using a some 'strong language' when the time is right, but there's been a lot of F-bombs and nasty insults going around lately. It makes me less interested in these forums.
Id say the time was right for me to say f*ck twice. I was accused of something I obviously didn't do by a worm,who is trying to destroy this thread and start shit as a attack against me. I'm sorry if that offends you,and I agree with you,but I don't take lightly to someone blantantly lying about me. I think my reaction to Seldane and MOOSEMAN was justified. I think the majority may agree with me here on this too.
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I'm not trying to start anything, I'm trying to protect Moosmann from the ridiculous and very childish claims some of you posted against him. He's a great guy and a fantastic resource to the console modding scene (this mod, including many others - as well as being extremely helpful in this area). Of course it isn't allowed to use his diagrams without his permission, he drew them himself.
And yeah, I agree with vestcoat. Some of the language used on this board is highly out-of-place.
Edit: And no, I did NOT contact Moosmann, all I did was link to his website! In case you didn't know, there are referrer logs which will tell you from where people are visiting your website. He obviously found this place through that log. I've never spoken to him personally or anything, I've just visited his website and read his posts on other Internet sites. YOU'RE the one who's trying to start flame wars here!
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Last I remember worm you said I took credit for something when I clearly did not. You lied then,not much point in believing you now. If the stuff isn't copyrighted its not really protected under law here in the USA is it,and either way it goes,this thread is staying up and nothing will be removed except hopefully Mossman for his way he decided to introduce himself here unless he wants to come back with a nicer and less accusing,selfish,greedy,controlling attitude. Just because hes German that doesn't give him the right to act like the Mod Nazi.
And Seldane,how do YOU know so much about how he found this thread. He didn't explain it,only you did.... More likely then not your explanation is a lie,as there are too many holes in your defense,maybe you need to go crawl back down into one of them worm.
Also,I remember seeing this mod up years ago on Massystems.com and MANY other websites,before I even thought to save any of this. I don't think Mossman works at Massystems for sure. Last I remember the guy at Mas is possibly asian,not german. And I don't think Mossman is the sole original creator of this region mod,wether it uses Ics, a 8 pole switch,a 3 pole,a DPDT,whatever. I think the claims and attempts you are making/made are far exceeding the ability to obtain the goal that your ambition is gunning for,you trying to hurt me or damage me somehow for some unknown reason and possibly have info I posted here removed as a way of doing so for lord knows why. You should be embarrassed.
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I didn't take Moosmann's comment as anything threatening - he went about it in a civil manner. He doesn't want people using his *images*. Which is fine. No biggie - I just changed the image of what I was trying to say with my own crude image. In fact, it's a bit more clearer and simpler this way.
Personally, I wouldn't care if someone took my own crude image and added to it for the sake of exchanging additional ideas - which is what I did - but that's just me. The owner of the image doesn't want it here, then it's off, I respect that.
As for the method itself, I'm sure he knows that MH nor I were trying to make money off of his schemes nor take credit for anything.
Now, going back to his comments,
To the modification: Pin 9 from the MC14551B are only “Enable” Pins. I think, it is >maybe< possible to only connect lifted Pin 29 (from the Hudson-Chip) to the enable Pin 9 from the ICs.
If you have a US System you can solder like this schematic, for the Japanese systems you exchange the wire diagram on one side. I mean, instead A --> H, you solder H -->A sequence in reverse >only< on the connector >or< pcb side.
My idea would be a moot point for a US system, since pin 29 of HuC6280 is presumably already grounded on the PCB (as that's what the US games check for), the switch would do nothing useful. My idea was only intended for the SuperGrafx, which is obviously jp only.
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What I meant by taking credit is that you made your own picture using Moosmans own graphics instead of linking to his guide directly nor giving credit.
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He should put little copyright notices on the pics if he's worried about people using them, no one here intended to plagiarize anything. That kind of stuff gets passed around all over the place and it's impossible to keep track of who originated what if there's nothing on the pics to tell you.
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I linked to his site in this thread, and he saw that people were referred to his site from here. He checked it out and noticed MH used his pics and took credit for it.
A lesson worm,taking credit is saying "I CREATED THIS". I did nothing of the sort in any manner and even said this info came from other sources. Give it up and move on worm.
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What I meant by taking credit is that you made your own picture using Moosmans own graphics instead of linking to his guide directly nor giving credit.
Yes, I modified his image. I don't have a 100% acceptable defense there, but I did it knowing that he obviously put it up there for people to use his info, so I just used that info he was providing to put out my own thoughts. The source of the image was linked in an earlier message by you Seladane, so I'm sure anyone who's been keeping up with the thread knew that the original source of the image [minus the additions I made] wasn't me.
More importantly, the whole point of my modified diagram didn't have to do with his particular 2 ic mod, as another known mod using 4 74HC4066 ICs can be used just as well with my idea (which is now shown in the image that I replaced). Not to mention other ways of controlling the ground on pin 29 as I mentioned on my message prior to that.
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I didn't take Moosmann's comment as anything threatening - he went about it in a civil manner.
No, he didn't. That would have meant, as I said before, contacting the mods privately.
I belive that post was made deliberately to stir up drama.
What I meant by taking credit is that you made your own picture using Moosmans own graphics instead of linking to his guide directly nor giving credit.
1) that's not what 'taking credit' means.
2) how was he supposed to give credit to someone he didn't know existed?
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A lesson worm,taking credit is saying "I CREATED THIS". I did nothing of the sort in any manner and even said this info came from other sources. Give it up and move on worm.
Please. Did your kid hijack your account? It sure sounds like it. :roll:
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Exactly. Any of the worms explanations seem highly unfeasible because of his accusation directed at me,directly naming me saying I was taking credit,and for the mysterious reason as to why the guy joined just to post here. Seldanes doing all this guys explaining for him,which as far as I'm concerned he could only do if he knew the guy in some personal manner or is talking to him directly.
I mean,the guy didn't say how he found this thread,only Seldane did. Only Seldane is offering up lame excuses and a story made up with so many holes its not even funny. It was obvious as to what was going on right away as soon as I read it all. I believe the worm contacted the moose,said people were stealing his material and taking credit for everything,and got the guy started. I believe he gave him a direct link here,and I believe the moose didn't read my first post,jumped the gun,and made a jackass (heehaw) of himself. The worm started the whole thing. the worm showed what he was about the moment he named me directly for taking credit for something I was not. I think the worm should be stuck on a hook and fed to tha fishes see.
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I also think that after the moose left the worm got left on the hook all by his lonesome. Its obvious what the worm was trying to do/achieve. The reasons why however are not so obvious.
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Explanation full of holes? Ridiculous. You obviously have no idea what you're talking about. Maintain a website, then return with your accusations. Or wait, you won't be able to, as you'll realize my explanation was fool-proof.
But anyway, I should thank you for the laughs you've given me this evening. :lol:
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YOUR the only one explaining how he learned of this thread and why he came here,not him himself. You also accused me of something I did not do. I think this is pretty obvious and for you to think people wouldn't see this makes me think you feel the other members here are idiots. People do put 2 and 2 together. I think everyone has pretty much figured out someone here,worm,moose,or both,were trying to start shit. And yea,it worked,you and he started shit.
I however don't think he is nearly as much to blame for this as you are. I think this opinion is agreed upon by others,not just myself here. You should stop trying to save face,anymore your just looking more and more like a liar.
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It`s no problem for me that some peoples use my >pictures< e.g. in order to translate in a other language, but please contact me first before you use. Please don`t understand me wrong. I take time to make photos and graphics and I think it should be natural to ask.
I didn`t just to create this account to only complain. I create this account mainly to answer with an idea to make this modification >maybe possible< with just one single-switch to connect lifted Pin 29 to the “Enable” Pins from the switch ICs.
Bye Markus
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@ Michael Helgeson
@ thumpin_termis
Those photos and graphics are subject to my copyright. A use without previous arrangement is not allowed.
Its kind a hard to misunderstand that. You were pretty blunt in your meaning. Also,I don't read german,and if thats where I originally got it from,I wouldn't have seen or noticed a name to mettion credit to to begin with. Where ever I got it and most anything else I find and grab,I usually don't take everything,only what I need.
So when it comes to pics I edit out what isn't needed by me for my own personal use and trash the rest,and I typically don't save names because I usually don't repost others projects or anything. If I saved stuff I didn't need Id have more problems sifting trough my cd-rs trying to find one or two small things I need. Typically the only things I save in complete form are faqs. I also believe in sharing openly,and I don't really care if someone re-uses something I did,esp if they can improve upon it.
I think getting mad about someone finding anything I did useful and wanting to share it is insane and I don't expect people to ask me permission in advance if they can help someone do a system mod. Thats a control issue and in a gaming community like this I find all that has is a backwards affect on progress.
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Hi,
I saw this post and noticed some very familiar instructions. Part of what was borrowed here was from a guide originally written by Karl Stenerud back in 1996. It was also updated later by Earnest Rymer, our very own agt_dale_cooper and myself and the last updated instructions are found here:
http://www.geocities.com/duo_r@sbcglobal.net/files/switch.install.txt
I am not going to go into a "that's my copyright" argument, especially since I saw that already sort of happened. This is free information for everyone to share / build on, but I do feel it is important to give credit where it is due. Note: I am not happy with the outdated TXT format instructions and plan to do a new update with graphics (and in PDF format) very soon.
peace,
Duo-R