REPAIR GUIDE - Super CDROM2: Total capacitor replacement chart

[schweaty]

I believe in the units I've worked on that cap location was left empty.

ok... i couldnt remember if i pulled a cap there or not.  i seem to remember the last time i did one of these a couple of years ago, there was a cap there and i noted the value because it wasnt on the chart.  i could be misremembering tho.

[thesteve]

It's 100uf
Half won't run without it

[schweaty]

It's 100uf
Half won't run without it

i can confirm this.  i put the cap in and my CD player started working.  should probably add it to the charts

so, the problem now is it will start most (but not all) games but will usually quit spinning at some point in the game after a run button or some other button is pressed.  is this a pot adjustment issue?

[SamIAm]

Image is down due to Photobucket being terrible.

From imgur:

[SmokeMonster]

Thanks for reposting, SamIAm. I have a SCDR2 coming and this will be handy for its obligatory recap.

[BlueBMW]

I need to go back through all my photobucket stuff and relocate things... sigh

[SmokeMonster]

If that missing cap isn't present, should it be added there regardless? Also, is the PCB marked with +/- for that cap's position? I don't have my SCDR2 in yet or I could answer that myself.

Also, does anyone have a list the caps that can safely be replaced with ceramics?

[NichlasEk]

If its not there i wouldnt add it. The board is marked + and withe for negative. Regarding the electrolytes vs ceramics, it would depend on who you ask. Some say stick with the original plan. Some say use electrolytics for the audio section.

I say use what you have at hand


*nevet mind, found a picture on the forum and got it working* getting a new oscope next week. Then i can calibrate for real!

[SmokeMonster]

If its not there i wouldnt add it. The board is marked + and withe for negative.

Thanks! thesteve confirmed to me that if the 100uF cap is not present, it should not be added. He also recommends using ceramics for everything but the audio section.

Could someone please identify which caps are part of the audio circuit?

[NightWolve]

If it's not there I wouldn't add it. The board is marked + and withe for negative.

Thanks! thesteve confirmed to me that if the 100uF cap is not present, it should not be added. He also recommends using ceramics for everything but the audio section.

Could someone please identify which caps are part of the audio circuit?

I tried all ceramics on my SNES, but the pitfall was the Composite/S-Video amplifier/output circuit...

SNES engineers used 2 x 100uF capacitors in parallel to achieve 200uF before the signal leaves for the TV and replacing that area with ceramics led to disastrous results: white screens would lose sync, weird artifacts, just didn't work right...

Long story short I had to switch back to regular electrolytic caps for those video circuits, I just used standard 220uF caps so I wouldn't need 4.

Steve did consider the 4 100uF ceramics I used as defective from the factory because my DMM with capacitance measuring rated them at 60uF, but I don't think that was the only problem...

Kinda didn't trust the large ceramics after that, the small ones under 10uF are usually accurate in reflecting their labeled value. Electrolytic caps are usually higher than what the label says by default and lose said value over time as heats dries the fluid or it leaks out.

[SamIAm]

Stupid question time.

How do you get off those circular black doohickies that hold the CD drive to the main board?