Well, you'd have to be methodical and go to every cap that you replaced with a DMM, and 1) check both leads against 0 Ohms resistance which would mean that you bridged them together, 2) then check both leads separately to where they're headed, to another accessible point - a continuity test. In other words, go to a cap, put a tester on one lead, then look to where it goes down the trace, to ground, a via or wherever, put the other tester there and make sure you get 0 Ohms in that case. This would mean your soldered connection is good. Do this for both leads of the cap, positive and negative, etc. If every cap passes the test, well, you caused another problem unfortunately, and you're probably better off sending it to thesteve. One of your new caps may have been bad, too, which would be harder to catch. Since good DMMs with capacitance measuring support are readily available, I recommend to always check a cap's value before soldering it on. You can pick out the best ones from your batch this way too.