One thing no one seems to be aware of: It is correct when a "wall wart" type power supply says 7 volts (or whatever) and it measures 12V, or 15V, or whatever. Wall wart type power supplies are basically just a transformer, no regulator (AC output) or transformer with minimum regulation (DC output), both of which occur at the maximum current as listed on the power supply.
That is, a supply that measures, for example 12V (AC or DC, not important) when just plugged into the wall and not connected to the game system, simply tells you what the transformer is capable of producing without a load (no current being supplied). Connect it to the intended game system, however, and the load provided by that game system loads the transformer down to it normal operational output. So what you need to look for is a wall wart that will provide the desired output voltage at the desired current (or, at least close), and let the un-loaded value fall where it may (within reason). In fact, the higher the unloaded voltage, the higher the value of current that power supply will have available at any given lower voltage. However, you must also be aware that the higher that voltage is, the more damage it can do to the game system when the game system malfunctions.
Generally, the average user doesn't know or care about this, he just expects to go to Radio Shack and get whatever wall wart supplies the numbers close to his needs. In some cases, you can even use one of the RS switch-selectable units that normally provides a slightly lower current, and set it to the next higher voltage value. The higher voltage gets pulled down to the desired lower voltage, while supplying the small extra bit of current necessary to meet the original need.
Just an FYI.
Charlie
Topic: Information about the TG-CD's 11VDC power supply. (Read 795 times)
