CDROM2 glitches when warm.

[Fidde_se]

7805 with proper heatsink can be feeded with 35-40v without problems according to specs so an few extra volt shouldn't make it that much warmer, then there's the new switching regulators that can replace them completely that doesn't get warm at all.

Like Recom R-78HB5.0

[atman]

Im change some regulators to this one. Like in the IFU, some AV Famicoms etc.

https://www.elfa.se/sv/spaenningsregulator-to-220-st-l7805cv/p/17326242?q=73-262-42&page=1&origPos=1&origPageSize=50&simi=98.11

Dunno if its the most optimal, but its not near as warm as the original ones.

Edit: linked the wrong one.

[atman]

I use this at the slowest it will go which is 8x, no problems
https://www.amazon.co.uk/LiteOn-IHAS124-14-SATA-Internal-DVDRW/dp/B00ERJXTE4

I found an old Plextor CD-R writer from 2002 that I tried with.
Noticed at once that it writes much slower, the lead-in and out takes like 3 min each. 1X writing on my modern CD-Burner took like 15 sec. So it really writes slow on all tracks.
Hope to get some improvements.

[Fidde_se]

The regulator from ELFA is still a pretty standard regulator and won't be much different from the one that once sat there, the modern are switched.

And the price for the modern once are like x20
https://www.elfa.se/search?q=r-78+5.0

The efficiency and difference in temperature can not be compared on the same day...

[atman]

Just for the record.

Fixed the glitching CDROM2 now. Worked OK when cold but a bit shaky when warm. Some games did not even want to start when it was warm.

Changed the 4.7uf caps, three of them had very bad values and one didnt even charge up at all.
After that the CDROM2 became stable.

Seems like the 4,7uf ones are the most likely to fail?

[choijimmy]

Yes, those 4.7uf caps failed quite often.