RGB to Component mod using a BA7230LS encoder board design

[DarkOnus]

Exactly, remove the 75 ohm in and have like 1.5 k to voltage on the input or say 5k pots to test. Then have them tied to ground on the output. Also may need some decoupling caps after the pull up resistors. So it would be R--- 0.1uf--5.3mresistor--i.c.--(maybe 220uf cap)--75ohm--Pr.

Thanks for the advice Eddiesamma. Before your post here I had tried removing the 75 ohm resistors tied to ground on the input, and replaced them with 3.3k resistors tied to vcc, and I already got an improved component output without changing anything else on my board, which actually follow ACE's 5.0 schematics through to output.

My boards and ACE's schematic images are posted in my first post if you want to take a look.

So right now my boards with switching the current RGB traces with the one resistor to voltage modification to each goes more like this order ...
RGB in --- 3.3k resistor --- 1uf cap --- BA7230LS IC --- 2SC945 transistor --- 75 ohm resistor --- 220uf cap ---
then Y has an added 62 ohm resistor just before final output
Pr has an added 20 ohm resistor just before final output
Pb goes directly from the above last 220uf cap to output

I'm a little confused with your "R--- 0.1uf--5.3mresistor--i.c.--(maybe 220uf cap)--75ohm--Pr" trace.

It's a little more different than what ACE's schematics follow.

Would you replace the 1uf caps the current design shows to use before the IC, with .1uf caps you show to try?

What is the 5.3m resistor before the IC you you list, is that an added 5.3 million ohm resistor you want after the .1uf cap, but before the IC input for each color?

You don't show transistors at all in your trace, aren't they needed, or did you just forget to add them?

Also, in ACE's design, the pull down 75 ohm resistors are placed before running the output signals through the final 220uf caps, but you seem to show the pull down resistors placed after the 220uf caps.

And last, do you think I should skip the final 62 ohm and 20 ohm resistors in that the current design has in the final output for the Y and Pr channels?

Thanks for your help!

[DarkOnus]

Without any more targeted suggestions or followup to my new questions over the last 5 or so days, I decided to just try even more resistor combinations again . . .

I know I previously stated I had "improved component output" after trying 3.3k pull-up resistors instead of pull down, but after trying several more pull-up resistor value combinations on the RGB input, I'm hitting a wall. The reason was that even though I was getting a much brighter overall picture, and could get fairly decent reds and blues using pull-up, I could never seem to get the right mix of greens back in there too, so many areas that should have been shades of green just displayed as almost black in color.

So with the pull-up resistor method I just can't seem to tweak the resistor combination for all the colors in the right amount to get a decent more saturated looking color across all three channels while still maintaining a high enough brightness for games like Dungeon Explorer anyway.

Maybe there's a combo that would work well, but I can't find it. Each time I made changes to the pull-up resistors where I seemed to get green back in a decent amount, the picture once again became too dark again as it was before, so I've gone back to trying pull down resistor combinations at the input again instead.   

[DarkOnus]

I have to stop wasting money, take my time and do much better research :oops: before jumping into things . . .

So anyway, I wanted to get a video recording device to take full screen captures and record the TurboGrafx-16 composite and component video out directly from the console which I was able to get using this mod along with various tweaks I was implementing, rather than trying to get them using a camera on a stand where the screen captures and video wasn't really showing close enough to the true onscreen results.

I purchased an Elgato Gaming Capture HD to attempt this feat. But with the Elgato Game Capture HD device, if I hook up the console to it through the composite connector, it recognizes the signal, and I get a perfect video image on my Windows PC in the Game Capture HD software version 3.50.114(2114) 64-bit software which allows me to record the game fine. But the Elgato HDMI output (the only video out the device has on it) connected to my TV will not show the game at all, so I can't really play the game normally watching in the PC software while it records the signal because there is way too much lag.

OK I thought, at least I could capture some perfect screen shots and the game opening sequences, as well as some game play as I tried to get through areas with this 1+ second lag that was occurring. This way I have at least some nice examples to show of a truer output the mod was achieving, over those that I tried to capture with my camera.

However, the bigger issue became evident when I switched over to the console's component output, even though my TV accepts the signal and allows me to play the games over component relatively fine, the Elgato seems to fail to be able to process the signal correctly, because the software just shows a continual black screen in the video display area. So a no go on recording anything at all over component.

This was a bummer. Back to the drawing board . . .

[DarkOnus]

As I mentioned in my region mod switch's LED lighting thread, I've been wanting a Turbo Everdrive for a while now, and after a few hiccups with trying to order direct from Krikzz's own website, I eventually got it done. Low and behold, 12 days later, (today), the unit arrived at my door step. I was stoked!

Can't be more pleased with the Everdrive, works flawlessly so far with all the games and tools I tried to this point.

Not only pleased about being able to have all the Hucard games available on a single card for playing, but also being able to see how this video mod I'm trying to improve handles so many other games I didn't have access to try for testing before.