Trying to repair a lifted surface mount solder pad on a Duo pcb.

[Platinumfungi]

I was working on a total cap replacement on a Duo and was almost through when I accidentally lifted a solder pad along with an old surface mount cap.  Although the pad itself is lifted, the trace from the solder pad to the pcb is still attached and the system works fine. It's just the adhesive that broke free from the pcb.

I'm wondering:
 A.)What's a good way to reattach/reglue the solder pad?

 B.) Is this going to cause problems down the road if I don't glue it back to the pcb?

I've been told that perhaps some heat resistant glue could be applied to adhere the pad back down.

Here's some pics for reference. Any advice is appreciated.

Here's the position of the cap:
 

Here's what the area should look like (this pic is of a different system that is working fine). The red dot is the pad I'm talking about:


Here's a pic of what it looked like before I attached the new cap. (after I tried to bridge the pad and the trace with wire but realized it was unnecessary)


Any help is really appreciated.  I don't know much about pcb board repair.

[SNKNostalgia]

That trace and cap looks like it is just for the audio for the headphone jack. Check other caps and connections through out the system just to be sure. Try seeing the if headphone jack works right or not with or without the caps connected, then you will know for sure.

[Platinumfungi]

Thanks for the tip SNK. I was just getting ready to modify my post actually as I think I figured out what's up. Continuity tests were fine so I think I can actually leave it as is. I'll definitely check out what you said if I'm still having trouble

[SignOfZeta]

Prepare to call me an a$$hole, but I think I told you so. I mean, I told somebody, it was probably you.

Considering how much stuff you did to this Duo, the problem could be just about anywhere. How many times during the operation did you test the Duo? Are any of these capacitors polarized? If so, make sure they are in the right way. Did you check all the new ones before installing them? You might have introduced a brand new bad part. Also, it doesn't seem likely, but sometimes people fry components (like ICs) by applying too much heat for too long.

I think you are probably going to have to spend a lot of time A/B testing this with another Duo, if you have one.

[Platinumfungi]

Ha ha!  Not yet my friend. Perhaps on another problem in the future we can exchange pleasantries though .

I knew what it was. The system was fine the whole time, with the exception that the adhesive came loose on the one solder pad that is. After the continuity was fine I realized that it had to be something else....and it was.... I was trying Japanese Hucards in an American Duo  . I got so accustomed to working on a PC Engine Duo right before I did this one that I totally forgot to get out some American Hucards while testing.  An unmodified US Duo can't play Japanese Hucards. Simple as that.

You make excellent points though and I agree. On the first Duo I ever did a total cap replacement on I tested the system every time I replaced two components. So that ended up being about 25 tests give or take. Very time consuming but totally worth it if I messed up.  All of these caps I used are indeed polarized (electrolytic capacitors) so you do have to be careful about installing them the correct way.  If you check out the cap chart I posted it shows the proper polarity for all the caps.

Now all I really need to know is whether or not a lifted solder pad might cause trouble down the road.....?

[SignOfZeta]

Oh cool, I'm glad everything turned out to be such a simple problem.

If what you mean by a "pad" is the tracing of the PCB that is larger to accommodate a component (like a capacitor) then it is actually possible that it might become a problem. Usually the copper on a PCB is pretty much air tight since its totally adhered to the board, and varnished over the top. Its pretty hard for corrosion to happen in a situation like that. Now that its been pulled apart from the board, it might get green some day. Its probably not likely since the voltages are so low in a PC Engine, but since you are being so thorough...

If the copper itself isn't torn, what I would do is just lightly super glue (cyanoacrylate) it to the PCB, and then slather enough hot glue (from grandma's hot glue gun) over the top so that it can't get much oxygen. That should be good.

[Platinumfungi]

Encasing it in hot glue sounds like a great idea, thanks!  However, I was told not to use cyanoacrylate due to the fumes it would emit once it got heated by a soldering iron.....so...?