how to properly open a TG-16 CD unit?

[retromangia]

hey guys, my first post here. this place rules...Such dedication! =)

anyhow, i recently acquired a broken TG-16 CD unit, and I'm pretty sure it's just the laser that needs replacing.  Here's the scoop:

1.)Turn the system on, the system disc 2.0 screen appears, I hit run.... Nothing =) on the cd unit iself t says "PC" with a game disc in, and a 0 when its an audio cd.
2.) I made sure both locks were locked, am using the original adapter, cleaned the lens with cue tips and alcohol, blew compressed are on the inside and on the docking station. I even tried it as a portable player with a music CD using the plain old TG-16 A/C adapter, and still a no go.
3.) However, The motor "kicks" for a split second when i first power it up from the docking station. Also, at that very same moment The laser makes a clicking noise and almost "jumps". They both kick up just once though. Plus in a dark room, I can see that the laser does indeed shoot a red laser. 
4.) All the above would lead me to believe that everything is working so to speak, except the laser.  Am I correct?

and finally, What's the safest way to replace a laser?  So far I've open the back and removed the 4 screws. unfortunately the Top is attached to the bottom by one small wire running to the headphone jack (the soldering spot looks kinda brown/discolored, should i worry about that?), so it's hard to work around in there.  Then I see there's one lonely screw in the middle of the main board, and he doesn't want to budge easy.  Now I didn't try too hard to take that screw out, as I'm wondering if thats the best way to get inside the unit and replace the laser and inspect the system's insides.

hope to hear from ya guys!

I know we can get this sucker workin'!  :-"

[kid_rondeau]

Retro,
I've been studying these units for a while now and my latest research and experimentation has indicated that the laser is probably not at fault.

Have a look at this discussion:
http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=3646.0

But here's the summary:
1.) Open that bad boy up and squirt or swab 100% Isopropanol alcohol (or as high of a concentration as you can find) on the shafts of all the drive gears and the leadscrew (the gold, threaded rod that the laser travels on). You can be a little generous with the Iso.
2.) Manually turn the drive gears with your finger or thumb in both directions (go to one extreme of travel, then the other). The gears should turn quite freely now.
3.) Let everything dry out, and reassemble.

I recommend testing with an audio CD, preferably one that is close to 74 minutes (so that you can test how the laser moves/operates toward the end of travel...I use "Gord's Gold" by Gordon Lightfoot).
If it plays the last track with no skipping or clicking, then congratulations, you've fixed the CD player.

If you do get clicking and skipping, I have a procedure which has worked for me, but I CANNOT RECOMMEND you do it, because I don't know for a fact it doesn't hurt anything:

1.) Reopen the CD player and manually turn the drive gear until you reach the BOT (beginning of travel) (the end closer to the center)
2.) Using a screwdriver (or other appropriate tool), physically push the laser assembly all the way to the EOT (end of travel....as far out as it will go). You will hear an unpleasant gear-grinding noise when you do this!!
3.) Reassemble the unit and try playing the aforementioned 74-minute CD again.

My logic for doing this is that by pulling the laser all the way out, you re-establish the "home" and "end" positions for the laser, in case things get screwed up somehow.

Like I said...it's worked for me, but you do so at your own risk.

Good luck!!

[nat]

kid_rondeau is right on target.

If you can see a red laser from the eye, then your laser is fine and the gears are just stuck/stiff.

To elaborate a little bit on opening it up:

You do indeed need to remove that one screw holding the board in place. After that gently lift the PCB up slightly. There are two ribbon cables connecting the PCB to the laser assembly on the other side. You'll need to remove those, gently, so as not to tear them. I suggest a pair of needle nose pliers for this.

[Necromancer]

Welcome aboard, retromangia, and good luck resuscitating your Turbo-CD.

[SignOfZeta]

3.) Let everything dry out, and reassemble.

It seems to me like you should lubricate the gears after this since I'm sure there was lithium, or petroleum jelly on there originally.

[kid_rondeau]

3.) Let everything dry out, and reassemble.

It seems to me like you should lubricate the gears after this since I'm sure there was lithium, or petroleum jelly on there originally.

True story. I didn't bother because I figured the Iso would "soften up" the original lube so long as it wasn't all washed away.

[retromangia]

wow thanks for the generous amounts of reply's guys!

you guys really know your Shit! (can i say shit?) =)

kid_rondeau i will try your method today and get back to you

Lets hope this works!.... now where did i put those needle nose pliers?
 

[kid_rondeau]

There are two ribbon cables connecting the PCB to the laser assembly on the other side. You'll need to remove those, gently, so as not to tear them. I suggest a pair of needle nose pliers for this.

This method will definitely work, but I have a different approach that I feel has less potential for damage to the ribbon cables:

The ribbon cables terminate inside white block connectors on the PC board. With a little care, and even finger pressure, you can "pop up" these connectors by about 5mm. You don't have to worry about separating the connector; it won't come completely apart.

Once you pop the connectors, you can pull the cable right out with virtually no force.

Hope this helps!

Oh, and yes you can say "shit" on these forums (as far as I know, anyway!), but don't overdo it or else moderators will come to your house and wash your mouth out with soap.   

[retromangia]

HOLY CRAP!!!..... I owe you guys a round of drinks...


SHE LIVES!!!! 

I opened her up carefully... removing the ribbon cables was the hardest part as i didn't want to be to rough on them... I chose the needle nose pliers method, and was very careful not the rip them... I've learned the way of the wiggle =)  Also when i put them back in, i found it easier to use my fingers alone.

Once i was inside the beast... i tried to spin the gears with my finger.. and they would not budge!! So i said, bingo! there's the problem right there. I carefully unstuck the gears with my finger nail and got them cog's moving again.  After that i used a cue-tip with rubbing alcohol to first clean around the gear area, along with the 2 bar/screws that the laser moves back and forth on. Once those were cleaned up i applied a very small amount of petroleum jelly on them to help keep them running buttery smooth.  That laser has never been happier!

Fired her up with a music CD, and BAM! I could almost hear the CD unit saying Rooooaaarrr!!

Frank Sinatra never sounded so good =)

Thanks for all the help guys, it's very appreciated!!  I didn't think this was going to be so easy.   

So where do i go from here???  you guys recommend getting that back up Hu-card right?  and in order to do that I'd have to get this bad boy region modded correct??  Do i really need that card.. is the save unit really that bad inside the system? 

If i did get it region modded, then i could use a nice cheap Japanese system 3.0 card right??  it's CRAZY how expensive the US version is!! i think i saw it for almost $200 alone the other day! RIDICULOUS!

and while I'm at it.. why not throw S-video in there!

what do you guys think!?

-Retromangia

[nat]

So where do i go from here???  you guys recommend getting that back up Hu-card right?  and in order to do that I'd have to get this bad boy region modded correct??  Do i really need that card.. is the save unit really that bad inside the system? 

If i did get it region modded, then i could use a nice cheap Japanese system 3.0 card right??  it's CRAZY how expensive the US version is!! i think i saw it for almost $200 alone the other day! RIDICULOUS!

and while I'm at it.. why not throw S-video in there!

what do you guys think!?

The memory isn't really "bad," it's just that some game's save files are so large they take up your entire save game memory. Having the "back up HuCard" (called "Ten No Koe Bank") is basically a must if you're playing RPGs, and a good thing to have around regardless.

If you get your system region modded (usually cheaper than buying a JP adapter), you can use all JP-region carts including the Bank and System 3.0 Card on your US system.

Forum member D-Lite does mods on these systems, you can see his price list here:

http://www.multimods.com/modsales.html

I've recently started offering this service as well, considering D-Lite is extremely busy with life in general these days and already has a backlog of orders to fill. You can find my thread here:

http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=4868.0

If you have questions about the process, etc, feel free to PM me or post in my thread there. Alternatively, you can try to get a hold of D-Lite.

Congrats on saving another Turbo from the landfill.

[Necromancer]

Congrats on saving her from the trash can (or net, as the case may be).

Like nat said, the Tennokoe Bank cards are really only necessary if you're worried about losing your game saves.  If you don't mind saving over the old ones, then don't sweat it, but as cheap as they are, I'd get one anyway.  I'd also skip the Super System Card altogether and pick up an Arcade Card Pro.  It won't cost much more and then you'll be able to play damn near anything.

An S-Video mod is kind of a judgment call.  The composite out is better than most, so the improvement isn't as great as it is on some other consoles, but if you want the best, go for it.  If you're happy with how it looks now, spend the dough on more games instead.

[kid_rondeau]

and while I'm at it.. why not throw S-video in there!

Dude, when I modded my TG-CD for S-Video, I felt the difference was like night and day! But doing so took a lot of elbow grease...everyone assembles circuits differently, but I basically ended up putting the RGB-to-S-Video circuit inside the flat part of the TG-CD docking station (right beneath the TG-16!). That isn't the only way to do it, but there you go.

Unless you're REALLY handy, then I would consider paying to have the mod done.

[retromangia]

yeah i bet it looks awesome in S-video... but the mods cost almost $100! so i think i'll stick with composite for now unless i can find that mod cheaper..

anyway,  my drive stopped working again today... i guess petroleum jelly isnt the best stuff.

so this time i had some gear grease lying around, and lubed that baby up again big time.

she purrs now! =) 

oh yeah, and sometimes during a game while loading a new scene...The unit will click after the laser has moved.  it almost sounds like this... (laser moving) rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrClick.    Right at the end after the lasers done moving.  but only a few times at the same spots during a game..

i've heard these drives are loud, so does that sound accurate to you guys?

-Retromanga 

[Michael Helgeson]

I actually keep  a tube of Super Tech Lithium General Purpose Grease around for this kinda stuff. Have been for years. I have no idea why you'd use p.jelly,its too thick. I guess yea it'd work if the motor was stronger but small motors would have to fight it.
Anyway,using lacing the gears in thin small amounts and the slide rail and slide bar with the above works great for me. Everyone just needs to remember that when applying a newer layer of grease,remove all the old stuff completely,esp if its a diff type.