The non-working Turbografx-16 i've just bought

[turboswimbz]

Congrats!  keep enjoying.  And if your getting rid of the non-working turbo I might be interested. (Although shipping is a pain anymore)

[FiftyQuid]

AND ANOTHER UPDATE:

So, last week i bought of eBay another turbografx-16 (console only, no wire, nothing) Says "Working console". Got it for a reasonable price.

Drum roll.... test it out with my AV mod / RCA thingy and games and power suply i already own. It f*cking works! I was so happy. And by the way i LOVE the system so far.

Now i can tell for sure that the problem was the console ..

It sounds like you've tested everything possible with your bad TG-16.  The symptoms you are describing are very similar to the ones I experienced with my busted TG-16.  In my scenario, I suspect it has something to do with a bad connection with the expansion pins directly connected to the main PCB.  I never could get it to work.  

Very happy to hear you did get another one and that your NEC experience wasn't soiled by one faulty piece of Hardware.  Oh, and I agree that all that shielding is a complete pain in the ass.  The TG-16 costs would have been drastically reduced launch day if they hadn't had to include all that damn metal.

[RoyVegas]

As stupid as this may sound, it doesn't hurt to mention it.

I still have a Turbo that does the same thing your video shows. What I do is push the Hucard all the way in, turn the power switch on, back out the Hu card until it hits the little arm (that comes out when you turn the power on). Then just turn the system off and back on again.

Works for me every time when mine does it.  Couldn't hurt to try.

[Duo_R]

Try a hucard slot cleaner. I have one I bought in the late 90s still works. i once had a Duo that would not play until I cleared the hell out of it. It's not as common as a NES but it is possible.

Now where you can get one of these is trickier but ebay might be the way to go. It is actually a generic universal kit and one of the cleaning carts fits TG16

[roflmao]

I've heard of people wrapping a HuCARD with a coffee filter (probably cutting it to the width of the card first), wetting the contact end with rubbing alcohol, and using that to clean the contacts.  I don't think I've tried it, but probably would if needed.

[thesteve]

i have done that with good results

[BatsBenny]

As stupid as this may sound [...] Couldn't hurt to try.

I don't think it sound stupid at all..

That problem happen all the time with the NES so why not here? I try every possible way, pushed all the way in, a litthe out, with paper under the Hucard to raise it against the pins..

Like you guys<, i still think my problem is a dirty HuCard slot.. even if I cleaned it the best i could.

I actually tried the coffre filter trick (don't rebember where i got that), tried paper, electronic contact cleaner, iso alcool

[BatsBenny]

Hi guys, i got some "solder suck wire" like this

to remove the shielding. Why so much solder... anyway..

The board has some leak stain on it. It was some kind of yellow-brownish goo... cleaned some of it.

What's that? Leaky capacitors? or someone poor coca-cola in that turbo..

[turboswimbz]

  I'm sure they will chime in.   ( see below )

[thesteve]

mostly flux on those
they sprayed the board with flux before soldering, but didnt clean after

[BatsBenny]

Other than that the solders looks OK..

But even with the shielding off i can't clean the pins of the card slot.. they are hard to reach

[TheOldMan]

Since you have already done the 'standard' cleaning procedures, it's not likely to be crud on the pins.

Use a stong flashlight, and check where the pins sit in the connector: Are any of them out of alignment?
Are any of them bent? Patience and a small needle or stick pin can move them back into place - but be careful not to pop them out of the front.

Then, use a continuity checker (or multi-meter) and a stickpin to make sure there are no breaks in the connector. If you use an alligator clip to hold the stickpin on one end of a probe, you can make contact with the pins from the front of the connector, via the small holes at the front. Check to the appropriate pin on the back, and to the board itself. Could just be a poor/loose solder joint at the board.

If all that checks out, its not the connector.