Retr0Bright a PCEngine - See the results

[mamejay]

OK.  I decided to give this whole biso a go.
I opted for the easy single bottle of creme peroxide solution.

I used a black light I have had for ages.  Not sure if it is actually UV light but decided to give it a go
I created my retrobright chamber of light (cardboard box and al foil) and got cracking.






Before I started

First treatment picture again

Here is after the second treatment

Third Treatment.  not sure if the pictures show much difference but it has gotten rid of some very minor blemishes now

[Necromancer]

That's a heck of an improvement!  It ain't perfectly white and clean, but it's waaaay better now than that nasty looking used cigarette filter in the 'before' pic.

[PunkicCyborg]

Wow that's an awesome improvement! I've been wanting to do this to my yellowing PCE in my IFU as well.

[city41]

Is RetroBright better than bleaching?

http://www.superpcenginegrafx.net/cleaning_a_pcengine.html

Looks like from pics they both accomplish about the same results.

[mamejay]

I think it is.  That console in the link was no way near as bad as my console.
I am going to try out the proper retrobright where you mix peroxide and a few other things and see how it goes

[roflmao]

Wow, looks great!  Did you just slather that stuff on with a paint brush?  How long was each session under the black lights?  What is the brand name for that stuff (I'm wondering if I can order it off Amazon or something)?

EDIT:  Sorry for bombarding you with so many questions.  

[fraggore]

wow that's made a world of diffidence.

[turbokon]

Looks good. I need to do this on a couple of my consoles. So you just use a bottle of creme peroxide solution? No mixing needed?

[Arkhan]

"Is RetroBright better than bleaching?"


Its the same thing.  Retrobright is just the overly engineered version with a bunch of nonsense additives that do nothing.


You'd have gotten better results with a better UV light.   Go get one designed for tropical lizards at a pet store.  You've likely got that bulb up so far it's barely delivering the waves to the plastic.


The effective range is like 12".



You should have just bought clear peroxide developer.  The liquid.  not the cream.

Take the PCE, stick it in a small clear container, fill the container with the liquid... stick it in real sunlight.


You'll have it back to new status in like 2 hours or less.

The PCE is so small you won't need a large container.  As a result you will need less liquid.



I used to bleach C64s in marathon sessions during the summer.   I know what I am talking about.


I swear I've posted this on this forum at least 3 times now.

[Necromancer]

I swear I've posted this on this forum at least 3 times now.

We prefer not to listen to the crazy people.

[Keith Courage]

Does anyone know if retro bright works on a yellowed pc engine CD drive?

[fraggore]

lol

[SignOfZeta]

Does anyone know if retro bright works on a yellowed pc engine CD drive?

Yeah, it does. They don't end up the same color though, and I'm not sure they were in the first place. They certainly aren't the same texture.

My PCE set-up has re-yellowed considerbly since I made my thread about it here a few years ago. This is very sad. Because of this I'm going to eventually paint mine. I just need to learn how to make a new logo via screen print, photo etch mask, something like that. Then it will stay white forever. Give me three of four years and I'll make a thread about it.

As for the straight bleach versus Retobrite argument; they do the same thing but I'm pretty sure that bleach is a LOT harder on the plastic.

[Necromancer]

I just need to learn how to make a new logo via screen print, photo etch mask, something like that.

Has anyone here ever done this with printable water transfer paper?  I've done similar transfers with plain paper and solvents, but those were only good for things where print quality and durability weren't an issue.

[SignOfZeta]

I just need to learn how to make a new logo via screen print, photo etch mask, something like that.

Has anyone here ever done this with printable water transfer paper?  I've done similar transfers with plain paper and solvents, but those were only good for things where print quality and durability weren't an issue.

I don't see this as something that would be tough enough or even opaque enough. The idea is to make something that is as good as the original, except better, because the paint won't yellow.