Found a US copy of LoHT, but its damaged. It plays, but whats its worth?

[Flare65]

Found an ex-rental copy of Toma, but the HuCard is damaged.  The game had some sort of sticky residue on it and the owner of it used some Goo-Gone to remove the old rental sticker off the back of it.  In doing so, the Goo-Gone melted the artwork on the back of the card.  I have not bought the game from him yet, as we are trying to come up with a price that is fair to both of us.    It is the USA version of the game, but it has photo copied instructions and a couple of poor quality color photocopies of the box, so it is not a complete copy.

Long story short, don't use Goo-Gone to clean anything plastic!  Let me know what you think.

[Bernie]

That artwork and manual look like shit.  I could deal with the HuCARD tho.  Offer him no more than 50 bucks in that condition.  If you buy it, throw that artwork away and get with Sparky for his inserts.

[SMF]

I honestly wouldnt give him more then $15 for it. Game is damaged on the back. Nothings original, also everything is a crappy copy. You can get a complete PCEngine one for $35.

Dont get excited on a rare game thats beat up, Unless that said game is Magical Chase lol.

[Black Tiger]

I would actually pay as much as $40 for it, but only because I mainly buy games to play and it is the last one I need. If I wasn't trying to complete the TurboChips set, I'd say $20. If it wasn't rare, I'd rather hold off and wait for one that isn't disfigured.

[FiftyQuid]

You might as well be buying a loose hu card.  The rest of it is worthless/useless.  If the front and back of the hu card were perfect then maybe I'd offer him $60, but the back is terrible.  I could live with it though.  $40 would be a good offer, $50 is pushing it in my eyes.

If you do buy it, the first thing I'd do is clean the back of the hu card with more goo gone until all the silkscreening was removed.  Then I'd bust out a scanner, scan any TurboChip, clean it up in Photoshop, and either have a sticker made or actually get some silk and emulsion and silkscreen it again.  Make sure to use Nylon ink with the bonding agent mixed in.  It's just a default print on the back.

[vestcoat]

Decide how bad do you want to play that particular game and pay whatever it's worth to you. Haggle. Live a little; you only have a couple more years to take chances on purchases before every last aspect of reality is codified on some Google database you can query on your voice-activated smart-whatever.

The damage on the back looks more Goof Off (a paint remover) than Goo Gone. Goo Gone will eventually remove paint if it's rubbed excessively, but it doesn't melt plastic.

[TheOldMan]

get some silk and emulsion and silkscreen it again.  Make sure to use Nylon ink with the bonding agent mixed in.  It's just a default print on the back

More information please, on how to silk screen on plastic.
Got a good link?

[Dyna138]

So basically all he has is a loose card and a poor quality one at that. $30-$40 is about all I'd pay for it given its rarity, but I'd personally wait for a better quality one. You don't know if any damage was done that might show up in the future and cause it to stop working.

[roflmao]

The damage on the back looks more Goof Off (a paint remover) than Goo Gone. Goo Gone will eventually remove paint if it's rubbed excessively, but it doesn't melt plastic.

Goof Off is the devil.  I have some and tried using it once on a HuCARD.  It was bad.  Goo Gone, on the other hand, is much safer for pretty much everything.

[DragonmasterDan]

With fake instructions, chunks of the box and the back of that card it's definitely not worth as much as it might be. If you really want a copy of the game and don't care about condition, make an offer to the guy you feel is fair.

[FiftyQuid]

More information please, on how to silk screen on plastic.

I worked at a silkscreen printing company for over 10 years full time.  If you have any questions ask me.  This is something you can definitely do at home.  It won't be cheap, but it's not stupid expensive either.  This is the best online link I can find.  It shows the basic process;


Make sure you use a air dry ink.  It's commonly called nylon ink.  I'm not sure what the guy in the video is using.  The stuff you want for an hu card is nylon ink and you needed to add a bonding agent or the ink will flake off.  For mesh, make sure you use at least 400.  You need at least this fine a mesh for the fine lettering.

[Flare65]

I've shown him this message thread and he does agree that everything is in crap condition.  For now he is letting me hold on to it.  Its the only gem in his collection (albeit a poor quality gem at that).  His original TG16 system is busted and the only games he has are common titles like Bonks, Keith Courage, TV Sports Football, Blazing Lasers..etc.  Almost everything was submerged in water when his basement flooded years ago.

[FiftyQuid]

I've shown him this message thread and he does agree that everything is in crap condition.  For now he is letting me hold on to it.  Its the only gem in his collection (albeit a poor quality gem at that).  His original TG16 system is busted and the only games he has are common titles like Bonks, Keith Courage, TV Sports Football, Blazing Lasers..etc.  Almost everything was submerged in water when his basement flooded years ago.

If the cases are still good tell him I'll buy them off him.

[Tatsujin]

lol, get a complete pce one

[geise]

Yeah I've stopped with trying to find a few turbo chips I missed out on in the early 90's that are more sought after, and went with pce versions.  Best thing I ever did.   Now if I was like BT and it was the only one I needed I still would wait.  I wouldn't want to end my collection on a down note with that piece of shit copy.