White PC Engine should be white

[Deletion]

Also what was the salon stuff all about?

The Salon Care 40 Volume Clear Developer is hydrogen peroxide. That's the brand that is readily available at Sally Beauty Supply, a large chain of beauty supply stores in America. From what I've read, 40 volume (or V40) equates to 12% strength.

[Frank_fjs]

Quick qu, how long did you leave them in there for and did you do a single or multiple applications?

[Duo_R]

thanks! Yeah I was wondering why I didn't see regular hydrogeon peroxide in the photos. That stuff is stronger I assume?

Also what was the salon stuff all about?

The Salon Care 40 Volume Clear Developer is hydrogen peroxide. That's the brand that is readily available at Sally Beauty Supply, a large chain of beauty supply stores in America. From what I've read, 40 volume (or V40) equates to 12% strength.

[Deletion]

Quick qu, how long did you leave them in there for and did you do a single or multiple applications?

It took me two weeks to whiten everything. The first attempt was on the PCE and that lasted 4 hours. There was a marked improvement and I didn't notice any ill effects, so I left them in longer. I did it only when I was around and able to check the pieces every few hours. As I became confident that the process worked and didn't hurt the plastic, I left them in when I was at work and over night. Towards the end of the two weeks, I left the pieces in for whole days at a time.

[Deletion]

thanks! Yeah I was wondering why I didn't see regular hydrogeon peroxide in the photos. That stuff is stronger I assume?

The Retr0bright recipes recommend a maximum strength of 15%. The strongest I found at Sally Beauty was 12% (40 volume) and it worked great. Lower strengths were also readily available at Sally's. Also, I used the liquid version (called Clear Developer) and not the cream or gel version (called Creme Developer).

50 volume = 15%
40 volume = 12%
30 volume = 9%
20 volume = 6%
10 volume = 3%

[Frank_fjs]

Thanks for the info!

Currently whitening a yellowed HuCard case but I'm relying on sunlight at the moment, of which there isn't much around in my part of the world. Has been a day so far and the case has improved but it's still yellow. I also only have 20 vol peroxide which doesn't help.

[Kaijuboy]

Hey Kaijuboy, I did this myself not to long ago. I left the overlay on the controllers and it turns out just fine.

Thats great news!  I've got a cream colored controller that needs some love! 

Guess its off to Sally Beauty supply tomorrow!

[esteban]

Thats great news!  I've got a cream colored controller that needs some love! 

Please save the pornographic imagery for the chit-chat thread.

Cream-colored, indeed.

 

[GameFreak]

looks great!!! thanks for sharing the pics & info!!!

[SuperPlay]

Sooooooooooooo clean :-)

[roflmao]

Fantastic write-up & result!

Thanks for sharing.

What he said.

Looks great!

[meka]

I used the RetroBright method (Lorne's Variant Recipe) on my SNES about a year ago and it still looks like it did when it was new.

There's a few different recipes at: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Retr0Bright+Gel

[Keith Courage]

This is a good write up. I've always just used bleach on pce systems as well as the controllers and it works great. However, it never works for CD drives. I will have to remember this when I come across a yellow CD drive in the future.

[Frank_fjs]

I did a half-arsed version of this and it worked quite well, all things considered. I only used 20 vol cream peroxide and very little sunlight as it's the end of winter where I am.



Quite pleased with the result, not perfect but much, much better than before.

[Drakon]

Whoa frank that looks awesome