REPAIR GUIDE - TurboCD base disassebly and cap guide

[wilykat]

I didn't see a guide for the base unit, and it was a bit of a pain in the butt the first time around so I made a guide. I was taking pictures as I went along so I could put mine back together 

First: the cap guide:


I didn't add the voltage to the image as there were multiple voltages, the stock voltage were:

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C101 330uf 25v C129 1uf 50v
C102 330uf 25v C130 1uf 50v
C103 330uf 25v C131 47uf 25v
C104 330uf 16v C132 22uf 25v
C105 10uf 50v C133 47uf 10v
C106 330uf 16v C134 47uf 10v
C107 10uf 50v C135 10uf 50v
C108 10uf 50v C136 4.7uf 25v
C109 220uf 16v C137 100uf 10v
C110 10uf 50v C138 1uf 50v
C111 100uf 16v C139 2.2uf 50v
C113 470uf 16v C141 47uf 25v
C115 47uf 25v C142 1uf 50v
C116 47uf 25v
C117 10uf 50v C204 470uf 6.3v
C118 10uf 50v C212 100uf 10v
C121 .1uf 50v C214 100uf 10v
C122 .1uf 50v C216 2.2uf 50v
C123 10uf 50v C217 4.7uf 50v
C124 10uf 50v C222 100uf 10v
C125 10uf 50v C231 47uf 16v
C126 10uf 50v
C127 10uf 50v C301 47uf 16v
C128 10uf 50v
C139 were in 2 different location, the earlier board has them closer to the corner and oriented differently than pictured.  C142 was absent in earlier board revision, and can be included. The cap should connect from the input (unregulated) of 7805 regulator to + side of the cap, - side to ground.

You can use higher voltage without a problem, but keep in mind caps with higher volage rating tended to be bigger and you may run out of room on the crowded area of analog board (power + A/V)

SRAM cap probably won't need to be replaced but if you choose, you can use higher farad rating for longer memory retention. The cap in my TurboBooster Plus uses 0.1F while the CD dock uses .047F (about half) There seems to be enough room that you could get 5.5v 1F cap for retaining memory for a few months.

Disassembly:

Remove the screws as noted.  2 screws uses phillips and can be done after you remove the rest of the screws (use security gamebit) and remove the panel where TG-16 console sits on. At this point you can clean (or remove) the lock pieces to take stress off the CD power switch. Sticky or dusty lock pieces could be putting stress on the switch every time you use it.


Carefully release the clip on both sides to remove the center & upper shell from the bottom shell


Disconnect the 3 cables, remove one screw to remove ground clip. One of the cable goes to power switch of the base unit. One other cable and ground clip goes to power and A/V panel which you can then slide out and set aside. The third cable goes to the side switch (CD lock switch)  It cuts off power if the switch is not in the locked position.


Desolder and lift those 2 braids.


Desolder and lift the last braid, then carefully pry the plastic clips on both side to remove the top shell from the center shell.


Remove 3 screws, then you can remove the CD connector board from the plastic shell.


Remove 4 screws and desolder/remove 2 braids. I tossed the braids away since the ground shield are connected by screws at multiple points.


Remove the last 2 screws that connects the RF shield to the TG-16 expansion connector.

At this point you have 3 naked boards connected by cables that either are hard to remove or are perma-soldered in (haven't figured it out). You should be able to repair and/or replace caps.

[esteban]

Damn.

[csgx1]

Great work!  Nice write up with a lot of detailed pics.