S-video mod schematic for the schematic illiterate (For TG-16/Duo etc)

[ProfessorProfessorson]

This MIGHT be the ONLY monitor with which this newer svideo mod causes trouble, but untill I'm 100% sure of this, I won't take any chances modding systems for others without adding a composite/svideo switch.

I don't blame you on that, but I did read that others had issues with SD content on that monitor in regards to picture quality leaving a lot to be desired. It's pretty much a given that its chips handling the analog SD contents processing is subpar. As with any older cheaper to medium priced LCD monitor, this can happen. Everything analog SD wise is handled with a lot of processing compared to a SD CRT tv, so skimp on the tv cost, risk having issues. I waited until 2010 before I bought my Toshiba, and I only did it after looking up tons of reviews for its SD support, which ended up being rather highly regarded. I paid almost $500 for mine, but it gives good results. I am just at that point anymore where I don't want to run 8 to 16-bit stuff on it anymore. I have become spoiled.

Like I said, if anyone else is having the same or similar issue, would be helpful to have it posted on here, and to have their monitor model and type and year make listed. I would be really curious to see if it is happening to others if it is only related to LCD type monitors and if so, if it is just older types. Also just to state, I don't think the people who developed this mod had any intentions for others to just use it to mod other peoples systems for profit, nor did I provide the original post easy to read one for this purpose. Unless you have access to quite a few SD and HD tvs for testing (like me) then you have no business doing it for others for pay either.

[SNKNostalgia]

I say to hell with the LCD for retrogaming and locate a Sony PVM/BVM RGB monitor (handles composite and S-Video nicely also). If you can't get one that easily, just find yourself a decent 20"-27" Sony Trinitron from '99-2004. Stay away from the EDTV/HDTV CRTs for 240p gaming if you can. They are a nice alternative for 480i/p gaming but you lose scanlines with 240p due to line-doubling.

[Keith Courage]

Color bleeding can be happen if the wrong capacitor to go from composite sync to the S vid jack is used. Also double check the grounding cause that does what you have pictured as well. Test for a moment without the capacitor and see what happens.

[chipperkwah]

Going to be doing the s-video mod here in the next couple days, whenever my new iron shows up. I'll be taking nice high-res photos throughout the process, and I was wondering if it would be preferable to post them in this thread or start a new one? If ProfessorProfessorson wants I can just send him the photos and he can add them to the first post. Or, anyone that wants to use them can use them in a guide.

[bigbacon]

sorry to bump this but with the transistor, I want to make sure I'm looking at this right.

obviously the Base leg goto HuC6260

is the collector leg the 5 volt line and the emitter to the s-video socket? I assume yes but want to be sure.

[ApolloBoy]

sorry to bump this but with the transistor, I want to make sure I'm looking at this right.

obviously the Base leg goto HuC6260

is the collector leg the 5 volt line and the emitter to the s-video socket? I assume yes but want to be sure.

Yes, and don't forget to add the 220 ohm resistor to the emitter.

[bigbacon]

ok so I tried this tonight and failed. I don't get video. My standard composite mod still works fine but the s-video is a no go.

far as I can tell, everything is connected correctly. the grounds work as I can use my multimeter and get a reading from the s-video cable to the pin on the EXT port.

I am not a electronic wiz but I get no reading through the capasitor, is that normal? I am assuming as even a new unused one does the same.

I assume I did something stupid but not sure what. My connections all seem good from the end of the cable to the back of the connector. Not sure how to test the rest.

[Keith Courage]

Post a picture please. I may be able to help you out if I can see what was done.

[Keith Courage]

Here are some pics of how I did the S-video for a TG16. Maybe this will help you. Also, please note that there is no capacitor in the picture. I hadn't hooked one up yet when the pic was taken.

Thought I'd post an update on doing S-video for a TG16 or PC engine that originally had the RF out. This is the easiest S-video mod to do. Some of you may already know this but I found better spots to tap moist signals needed. You can tap 5V and the Composite sync straight from two of the pins that originally went to the RF out. So if you de-solder your RF you can do your mod this way. So this saves having to run really long wires all the way to your expansion port and makes a sturdier connection for the transistor. Also, make sure to still use a 0.001 capacitor. There isn't one in the picture shown. I temporarily hooked it up that way for quick testing purposes. 

[bigbacon]

I'll get some photos later today. I stupidily encased stuff in hot glue BEFORE testing it like an idiot.

[bigbacon]

I have other photos if needed. it is quite messy.

http://starshipvonbraun.com/ss/sega/p1050230.jpg

[bigbacon]

well... doesn't matter now. I broke it

[ProfessorProfessorson]

I have other photos if needed. it is quite messy.

http://starshipvonbraun.com/ss/sega/p1050230.jpg

Lol looks like a Drakon job.

[Harmik]

I remember reading somewhere someone was working on a kit similar to the ones for Atari and Colecovision has anyone heard anything about that.

Cheers
 

[ApolloBoy]

For something this simple I don't really think you need a kit. It's only a single transistor, single cap, single resistor and an S-vid jack, not much else to it.