MOD GUIDE - Universal RGB-to-YPbPr/Component Circuit & Mod [8/24/2014]

[NightWolve]

If you have enough solder skills, can buy all the parts and want a weekend project, it can be done. "Easily" is not my word, but it is something that requires patience and understanding of schematics, sure. The aim of this thread is to teach people how to do it themselves in principle and not take the easy way out of buying a pre-made board, as nice as it is. Anyway, I don't know the net cost of your boards, but I do know for what it is, what it does, versus what you can buy for the same amount of money, it's not much of a deal, so, just calling it like I see it.

[turbokon]

If you have enough solder skills, can buy all the parts and want a weekend project, it can be done. "Easily" is not my word, but it is something that requires patience and understanding of schematics, sure. The aim of this thread is to teach people how to do it themselves in principle and not take the easy way out of buying a pre-made board, as nice as it is. Anyway, I don't know the net cost of your boards, but I do know for what it is, what it does, versus what you can buy for the same amount of money, it's not much of a deal, so, just calling it like I see it.

If I would have known you can buy something better that already does this at a better price, I wouldn't have invested a lot of time into getting this made.  These are all built by hand.  Not to mentioned the time it took to layout the board design from the circuit and trouble shooting but ok.....

[BlueBMW]

I agree with TK here.  Of course you can build them on your own.  I did just that with the region mod chips back in the day.  Building them on protoboards sucked so I spent the time (hours upon hours) working with thesteve to develop the first region mod chip boards.  Then shelled out significant money up front to get them made and order the appropriate parts.  All in all it was a large investment of time and money to make them.  And that time effort etc was reflected in the price.   These component encoders are at least 3 times as big and have more components and are about twice as expensive.  I think the price is justified.

Anyone is welcome to build it themselves from the info posted here.  And I'll bet if someone ran into trouble building their own TK would gladly help out.   If it's more trouble than its worth for some people then the pre made board is the way to go for some people.  If it saves three or four hours of frustration / lost time then it's definitely a just price.

If you think it can be made and offered cheaper NW... This is America, make it happen!

My $0.02.... carry on.

[lastcallhall]

another note, i know the TK board (my circuit) can do better then that on the genesis
during the circuit redesign i was switching between un-amped PCE and GENI SCART for my input
had good results with 75ohm and 220uf in the scart cable and 75ohm to ground after the cable

Thanks for the tip. I'll try terminating the signals the same way.

Lastcallhal, where are you getting your signals from?  I tapped every signals off the CXA1145 chip on a model 1 genesis.  I'm still using version 1 component board.

I am tapping from pins 21-23 on the CXA1145 for RGB, and I've tried the component out AND the sync out from the DIN-8 jack from the back of the console for a sync signal.

These are the same signals I'm using for Ace's board, too.

[NightWolve]

RE: Ace's circuit. That's a really old design. Here's the current design:



I actually just made a board through OSHPark today that got sent off to fabrication:



In a few weeks I hope to see how they turn out, as I've been using an older design prior to today.

Finally got a response from him. It looks like he made a decision to invest in one single design and make it as universal as possible. He indicates that this way makes both cases of having a clean H/V Sync or a Composite signal the most compatible/universal. Thus, you won't see an update without that Sync Stripping chip by him... I understand, but that's too bad. So a clean H/V Sync is supposed to go through that LM1881 chip as well. Doesn't seem ideal to me, but I don't have Steve's brain to know the pros/cons nor do I know Ace's experiences with how well this is working out, etc. One good chip that also accepted a Sync input would be great to properly mix it internally.

[turbokon]

Looks like low voltage to me.  Might try a different voltage source.  I think thesteve design has a higher power consumption then acer's,

[lastcallhall]

Looks like low voltage to me.  Might try a different voltage source.  I think thesteve design has a higher power consumption then acer's,

I'd like to hear TheSteve's take on this, as the circuit seems to use mostly passive components. I mean, if I can power an IC AND a sync stripper using the same +5v source that I have connected to your circuit, im hesitant to think it's a power consumption issue.

Unless you're suggesting that I tap into the ~11V input voltage for the circuit...

[turbokon]

11v will be over kill, I don't think the transistors can handle more than 7v, have to double check on that.  Passive component also consumes power,  P=Isquare x R.

[thesteve]

as most of the circuit voltages are relative it may run at 11V (not that id recommend it)
could also burn out as it would increase the heat in the transistors
i dont think its low voltage

[thesteve]

slight update
for picture improvement add a 22uf cap across D1
this will reduce noise in the luma circuit and make it less sensitive to different input signal levels
major improvement noted on SNES

[ProfessorProfessorson]

I was kinda curious. On the board Turbokon is selling, is there a way to keep the thing from losing sync on the GBS 8200 when using a Turbo/PCE? Happens during flashing screens. Even on my Toshiba it slightly happens depending on how long the flash is going on, but on the GBS it can completely cripple gameplay. Any thoughts?

[thesteve]

version2 should fix that prof
what version have you tried

[thesteve]

well i have a GBS8200 and a version2 handy so i tried some cards
didnt get a full screen flash on anything, but sync was solid on everything i had handy
LEGEND OF SUSANO has a 3/4 screen flash and it was solid

[Keith Courage]

I've noticed that if you change the Luma gain it can fix the video cutting out problems. some TVs like it higher and some like it lower. this holds true especially when using the older style component board.

one TV that I own requires me to get the luma gain in a sweet spot that isn't too high or too low for the screen to stay constant and solid whereas other TVs I've tested it on have no problem at all.

[MNKyDeth]

I received my RGB to component V2 a day ago and I am now just opening it up.

These are soldered by hand correct? I mean seriously, this thing looks like it was done on a machine! If they are done by a machine ok nvm... but... What size solder diameter are you using?
I am using .032 and I think now that it is too large to be using for super clean solder joints like what I see on this board.

Btw, thanks for a great product for those of us that don't want to do it by hand. I mean really, what is $25 bucks nowadays anyways? Half a tank of gas... One visit to a restaurant by myself... A 12pk of good beer. So yes, thank you and if everything goes good I won't have any questions.

Hopefully get to it this weekend or the next. I still need my Din 8 port and scart cable I am going to use. This weekend if Radio Shack has any of it if not next weekend most likely as I will have to order online.