Author Topic: MOD GUIDE - Universal RGB-to-YPbPr/Component Circuit & Mod [8/24/2014]  (Read 19580 times)

turbokon

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I'm sure thesteve will figure it out soon enough, that's one smart dude there. I'll wait until he finalize the design until I start on it.
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thesteve

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RGBS from the chip (full encoder)

thesteve

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new circuit


thesteve

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slight update

oreo76

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i posted on anotehr thread already..but i moded a briefcase with component:

thesteve

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did you mean RGB?

ConHuevos

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That looks great,  but I'd like to see a "zoomed out" picture as well, kinda hard to tell with just a close up.  It seems to look great though!

NightWolve

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If I didn't know any better, I'd say that's like the best screenshot steve's ever taken, minus him not resizing it proper for easy viewing though. ;)

(Same image, resized down to 2 sizes and pixel rotated a bit to straighten it out.)





Well, that IS looking good! I can say that now!! There's some blur, likely from slight camera movement that's very apparent with Dhalsim, but pretty good other than that.

If somebody with a RGB modded system and TV could load the game and take the same screenshot for comparison, I'd appreciate it. steve?

Anyway, good work man! I'll get the cap value and signal input details from ya whenever, I'm kinda busy right now, but when I get a chance I wanna update the OP with the new circuit. Or, looks like you added them after all, I see 470uF on C3. And I figure RGB Green is inputted at R1, and Composite Sync at R2 (or vice versa) and RGB Red and Blue at the bottom inputs as usual. Looks like only 3 caps needed now, but more resistors, a diode, and another transistor. Well, not as simple as before, but not terribly complex either AND still cheap!

EDIT: Well, here's a comparison versus the MagicEngine emulator. Either that TV's old and it's a brightness issue or the mod, etc. whatever the case, the blue curtain underneath the trunk of that elephant is failing to appear. Other problems aside from darkness like color vibrancy, even though this is not a fair comparison against an emulator, it does reveal some obvious problems that can be improved I should think. You should pause it and also have the composite signal hooked up, steve, and see how things look compared to its output, etc.

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« Last Edit: December 02, 2012, 11:32:03 PM by NightWolve »

NightWolve

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did you mean RGB?


Yeah, he said RGB mod in his youtube video. Since raw RGB is also referred to as a component type signal, he thought that's what this was about I guess.

i posted on anotehr thread already..but i moded a briefcase with component:



This thread is about getting a working YPbPr Component type signal out of NEC hardware; the circuits you've seen steve posting are not your usual raw RGB amps and what not. They're mixer circuits essentially, mixing the raw RGB and Sync to form Luma and also mixing the inverse of Luma with RGB Red and Blue to achieve the desired Blue-Y (Pb) and Red-Y (Pr) signal outputs, etc.

Reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YPbPr



It's a type of "Luma-based analog component," a general description which also covers S-Video and it was the last analog signal standard here in the U.S.A. before the jump to digital HDMI. You guys had the SCART standard in Europe, we got this, not as good as raw RGB, but much better than Composite and S-Video, etc. The color choice of green for Luma/Y when it comes to RCA cables and jacks is somewhat misleading (one might initially think it's raw RGB Green), as it's really a mix of RGB and composite sync, but since green is mostly derived from it (along with the Red-Y and Blue-Y), I suspect that's what factored into choosing that color.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2013, 09:13:21 PM by NightWolve »

thesteve

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you asked for it

Duo_R

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Any other games? SF has always looked weird to me on component on old systems. It ends up looking much granier than some of the other games.
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thesteve

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sure no prob
« Last Edit: November 24, 2012, 08:57:37 AM by thesteve »

ProfessorProfessorson

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You need a better camera lol. :P

thesteve

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have one somewhere

thesteve

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change R14 to 500ohms
add cap
« Last Edit: November 26, 2012, 11:48:09 AM by thesteve »