Issues with my CD-ROM2 unit

[the_importer]

Hi there,

I bought this set a few weeks ago from this online store: http://tinyurl.com/cnrl2ek

When I got the system, nothing worked. I managed to pinpoint that the first problem was that the power supply was busted. So I hunted a compatible one only to find out that the polarities on that system are inverted and that the replaceable heads on the universal PSU I bought had different pin sizes for positive and negative. So my friend (who in the electronic field) basically modified my PSU to invert those polarities so now the Interface Unit and the PC-Engine itself can work.

That being said, the CD-ROM2 unit has some issues. The system sees the difference between an audio and CD-ROM disk and sees the number of tracks. It sometime plays games or at lease loads the beginning movies or will play the first few audio tracks of a music CD. I've googled the most common issues regarding this system and most of them point and the disc not spinning due to a broken gear. I've opened my system only to find out that all 3 gears are there and running.

We've checked the board, nothing was broken nor did we see any leakage from any of the capacitors. I've had my friend grease the gears and the other moving parts while I cleaned the ribbon connectors since I had issues that were linked to dirty ribbons with my SEGA 32X. None of our efforts payed off because it didn't make a difference. This morning, I've made a discovery after realizing what the problem could potentially be. I knew (due to a few tests) that the lens could go back to the start if manually pushed to the end but I had the feeling that it couldn't move pass a certain point from the start and I was right, check out this video:


Now the question remains:

1- Can I fix this with regular parts and tools and if so, how complicated is it?
2- Should I try to find a kss-162a kit and have my friend replace the entire lens set?
3- Should I simply try to find a working CD-ROM2 unit and give up on the one I have?

Thank you

[Keith Courage]

I would try adjusting the potentiometers first.

[the_importer]

I would try adjusting the potentiometers first.

Talked about this with my friend that I previously mentioned. He says that the odds of this being the problem are slim, but just for the heck of it, what are the default potentiometer values in the CD-ROM2 unit (if any exist)?


Thank you

[Keith Courage]

This pic is pretty close to what they should be although I have seem some that can be a bit different.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa150/boostedk20a/Laser%20guide/pic_06.jpg

From right to left in the pic I know that the 1st is CD spindle speed, 2nd lens gain, 3rd some type of positioning for the lens, 4th and 5th (white pots) usually don't ever have to be adjusted.

[the_importer]

This pic is pretty close to what they should be although I have seem some that can be a bit different.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa150/boostedk20a/Laser%20guide/pic_06.jpg

From right to left in the pic I know that the 1st is CD spindle speed, 2nd lens gain, 3rd some type of positioning for the lens, 4th and 5th (white pots) usually don't ever have to be adjusted.

Thanks, I'll give it a try regardless of what my friend thinks since he's got no other solution anyway.

[Fidde_se]

We should note that when running cd in a briefcase setup it's pretty picky about the Ampere rating, there are people having problem that runs the setup with 9-10v negative center pin and just using 1A, going less then that it might not even start spinning. the briefcase says on the back 10W, 9V 1450mA (9*1.45=13.05W), personally I run with original MD1 10V 1250mA (10*1,25=11.25W) and never had any problem, so taking those 10W around it gives us 10w/9v=1.11A

I once tried running the setup with a power adapter giving 9v 600mA and it runs the PCE and or Briefcase with hucards, but would run cds, and trying a few times it sometimes looked like it worked but would stop working at the intro screen.

So always see that the voltage adapter can give enough ampere.

[the_importer]

We should note that when running cd in a briefcase setup it's pretty picky about the Ampere rating, there are people having problem that runs the setup with 9-10v negative center pin and just using 1A, going less then that it might not even start spinning. the briefcase says on the back 10W, 9V 1450mA (9*1.45=13.05W), personally I run with original MD1 10V 1250mA (10*1,25=11.25W) and never had any problem, so taking those 10W around it gives us 10w/9v=1.11A

I once tried running the setup with a power adapter giving 9v 600mA and it runs the PCE and or Briefcase with hucards, but would run cds, and trying a few times it sometimes looked like it worked but would stop working at the intro screen.

So always see that the voltage adapter can give enough ampere.

The universal AC I got has 1700mA at a 9V setting.

[thesteve]

remove the pce from the dock
run an audio cd
track search around and play strait through
if good supply issue likely
if not clean and grease the slide rails on the cd drive and try again

[the_importer]

remove the pce from the dock
run an audio cd
track search around and play strait through
if good supply issue likely
if not clean and grease the slide rails on the cd drive and try again

Although I didn't mention it, I did clean the lens, pretty much the first thing I did

[the_importer]

Double posting for update:

The potentiometers looked about the same in mine, so I tried using other settings.

1- First thing I tried didn't play anything
2- Second thing I tried played an entire music CD with almost little issues and well as Valis II and Valis III but with no music and both of them froze while loading the first boss while Valis IV didn't run at all
3- I put things back to the original settings but this time, I got better results where all 3 games played, nothing froze (well at lease not permanently) but I had no music or the music played for a minute then stopped.

Guess millimeters must make a different with these potentiometers.

[Keith Courage]

Still sounds like either weak lens or an out of adjustment pot 2 or 3 that I mentioned.

[the_importer]

Still sounds like either weak lens or an out of adjustment pot 2 or 3 that I mentioned.

Been playing with those pots for a couple of days now, I got the games running very well minus the music that stops whenever I hear that clicking noise. Pretty sure I've done all I can with the potentiometers, I think some parts need to be change to fix the rest of the problem. I'll see if fixing it cost more than buying another stand-alone CD-ROM2 unit.

[Keith Courage]

Well there are two other things that could be the problem. Bad capacitors or a bad lens. I'd try capacitors first.

[the_importer]

My money is on the lens mechanic but even if it is or not, I'm not skilled in repairing electronics, my friend is but he doesn't have that kind of time.
Also, if I need to buy a kss-162a kit, it may be less troublesome to buy a new CD-ROM2 unit. I've seen some for $90, so I don't know if it's a good deal, I'll need to look into that.

[Keith Courage]

Lots of old sony discmans have compatible lasers. Off the top of my head models D-4, D-11,D-12,D33,D34. There may be others but can't remember right now. Check out ebay for one.