Author Topic: PVM Raffle WINNER  (Read 1606 times)

jeffhlewis

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Re: PVM Raffle NOW W/PICTURES PAGE 1
« Reply #45 on: July 13, 2014, 03:45:21 PM »
Not looking to enter into the raffle (got me a 29" PVM this past Winter) but I gotta say - this is a badass raffle and very generous of you. +Karma.

Medic_wheat

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Re: PVM Raffle NOW W/PICTURES PAGE 1
« Reply #46 on: July 13, 2014, 04:03:00 PM »
Thanks...I just preffer it get some use and tlc.....I'd hate to see it wast away in a goodwill or such..considering most people will get confused on what it is and why they can't hook up a HDMI cable ..

NightWolve

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Re: PVM Raffle NOW W/PICTURES PAGE 1
« Reply #47 on: July 13, 2014, 04:59:48 PM »
http://forums.modretro.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12889

So nobody familiar with the RGB mod/hack to a regular CRT TV, eh ? I Googled a bit and found someone that succeeded. Now in his case he got lucky and had a TV that was straightfoward to do.

1) You basically would switch the TV to Composite mode (whereby the TV tuner is disabled) and plug the yellow RCA jack from your console like you normally would. This establishes proper Sync as would be normal, so that's the easy part.

2) The actual mod: You basically need to tap/reroute 3 wires for RGB that go to the PCB that attaches to the tube (pictured next). The wires might be colored properly (red, green, blue), or might not as was his case since you see that 2 are white, 1 is black.



Here's his result using SNES (classic models had a perfect RGB output by default) with "The Legend of Zelda" running:





He's obviously not a trained EE, did a crappy job having female RCA jacks hanging out like that afterwards, and the basic rule is you'd want a 75 Ohm resistor to ground on each jack as well (neither did he ground the jacks, but that happens at least when your yellow Composite jack is connected). But yeah, you get the basic idea for how this is done somewhat. Some TVs will NOT be this simple obviously, but it's certainly possible, some will, and it would be cool to be able to convert an old CRT TV of yours that you like into a RGB direct capable model!

Anyway, you would Google search "modding" or "hacking" "a CRT TV for RGB input" to find more info on this idea. Dunno if we already had a thread about this, doubt it, but might be worthwhile to collect and put all related info about this into one some time.
« Last Edit: July 13, 2014, 07:00:00 PM by NightWolve »

Medic_wheat

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Re: PVM Raffle NOW W/PICTURES PAGE 1
« Reply #48 on: July 13, 2014, 05:36:12 PM »
http://forums.modretro.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12889

So nobody familiar with the RGB mod/hack to a regular CRT TV, eh ? I Googled a bit and found someone that succeeded. Now in his case he got lucky and had a TV that was straightfoward to do.

1) You basically would switch the TV to Composite mode and plug the yellow RCA jack from your console like you normally would. This establishes proper Sync as would be normal, so that's the easy part.

2) The actual mod: You basically need to tap/reroute 3 wires for RGB that go to the PCB that attaches to the tube (pictured next). The wires might be colored properly (red, green, blue), might not, as was his case since you see that they are 2 white, one black.



Here's his result using SNES (classic models had a perfect RGB output by default) with "The Legend of Zelda" running:





He's obviously not a trained EE, did a crappy job having female RCA jacks hanging out like that afterwards, and the basic rule is you'd want a 75 Ohm resistor to ground on each jack as well (neither did he ground the jacks, but that happens at least when your yellow Composite jack is connected). But yeah, you get the basic idea for how this is done somewhat. Some TVs will NOT be this simple obviously, but it's certainly possible, some will, and it would be cool to be able to convert an old CRT TV of yours that you like into a RGB direct capable model!

Anyway, you would Google search "modding" or "hacking" "a CRT TV for RGB input" to find more info on this idea. Dunno if we already had a thread about this, doubt it, but might be worthwhile to collect and put all related info about this some time.


Tis is very interesting. 

Have you attempted this yourself?  I might have to see about moding my CRT tv that I am keeping seeing how it is bigger........

NightWolve

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Re: PVM Raffle NOW W/PICTURES PAGE 1
« Reply #49 on: July 13, 2014, 05:48:42 PM »
I kinda thought about it - it's interesting to try some time. I got a great 32" Panasonic CRT to try this with, but it needs to be researched some more first as there's some risk when messing around. The only console I have ready-to-go right now with perfect RGB output to try this with is the same SNES that he has there. My Turbo Duo is still opened up for cap replacement and the YPbPr Component mod that I need to get back to soon. This CRT of mine has good YPbPr Component inputs so I use that for everything (BluRay, PS2, etc.) and that kinda makes this idea not much of a priority.

Sidenote: Careful with opening and what you touch in a CRT TV as there are some big capacitors that might not get fully discharged after unplugging it and give you a "special surprise" you might not enjoy very much. ;)

DragonmasterDan

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Re: PVM Raffle NOW W/PICTURES PAGE 1
« Reply #50 on: July 13, 2014, 10:28:56 PM »
I recently bought a 20 inch PVM that was shipped working but arrived dead.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231262525800?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
 Chop5 is giving it a try to repair. Because it's not working I'm definitely interested in the raffle.
--DragonmasterDan

NightWolve

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Re: PVM Raffle NOW W/PICTURES PAGE 1
« Reply #51 on: July 15, 2014, 10:48:27 PM »
Have you attempted this yourself?  I might have to see about moding my CRT tv that I am keeping seeing how it is bigger........

YUP, I can now say yes and it IS beautiful!!!! I got interested the other night, and said what the hell, let's give it a shot after I remembered I had an old 13" CRT lying around, unused (they're ALL "monitors" technically now, not TVs, since the analog-to-digital signal switch; their tuners are defunct, so they're only good for whatever video inputs they have). I didn't wanna first experiment with my 32" entertainment center TV, so this was perfect, if I broke it I wouldn't give a shit.

So you need a CRT TV with at least a yellow Composite input jack. Following the lead of the guy that did it on his, I targeted that PCB that's connected to the tube that drives the electron guns.



My PCB was very simple in design and I could actually follow it a bit. There are 3 transistors, 3 big high-watt resistors at 15 kOhms in between the power to the transistors and the emitters were jumped over to go right to the guns. There were 'R' 'G' and 'B' labels and following them back to a set of 5 wires, I could make a good guess as to which of the 3 were for RGB. Like him, they weren't colored specifically, mine were all gray, but I used markers and nail polish to color them accordingly:



That PCB can come off as he did there above, but if there is enough labeling on the backside, better to leave it alone. But yeah, for research, you may have to in order to get a better look on the topside of the PCB. I had to since that's where the labeling was and I didn't wanna make any mistakes.

So I clip the 3 wires I was pretty sure are the RGB lines, I brought my SNES out, had to tap the standard RGB outputs as I didn't have the SCART cable that the Multi-AV out supported, hooked up the Composite jack, connected the 3 wires up once I had everything in position and gave it a shot!! Well, the only hiccup was that the signal was too strong/bright, so I turned down the pot for brightness at this thing:



That's the only adjustment I had to make. Never touch the pot for focus, but this you can as it's essentially the "master brightness" set at the factory. I wouldn't recommend this, but I did it cause I didn't care about going back and turning down the brightness digitally via the TV's digital menu system, nor could I at that point!

See, once you clip those RGB lines from the motherboard, you are no longer going to get the benefit of the OCD Operating System of the TV, the menus to control sound, video, channel adding/delete, that's all disconnected and your console is in full direct control of whatever is shown, so to do the mod right, you need a switch that reconnects those 3 wires so you can reset everything to its defaults and change something as need be.

The results: So just after turning down the brightness, I tried many SNES games I had handy, and I gotta tell ya, it was beautiful, like arcade or close to emulator mode. Many details were readable, like in "Super Street Fighter II," Dee Jay's "Maximum" labeled on his pants (never noticed that before)! There were ZERO issues about green levels or tint or black levels, it was all perfect after brightness adjustment! Pure RGB goodness.

Now, I am confused, I had that SNES still unfinished for a Component mod, but this seems so much better. And what to do about my Turbo Duo, to date, nobody has shown me what is the best RGB amplifier circuit for it and I think I would like to have one now, but I already picked out the real estate for the Component jacks to use steve's circuit, so I'd have to use the DIN for RGB if I wanted it or something... :/



My shit was way better than that!! Way better, games like "Super Mario World" came alive, solid, clean colors, no wavy interference, clear, crisp, shimmering completely gone, etc. I would reconnect the lines and then compare with Composite, so of course I got highly contrasting results as even S-Video/Component improve things quite a bit from Composite. Differences wouldn't be so stark going from S-Video/YPbPr to RGB as they are from Composite being the point.

Anyhow, I *think* I might try to make a thread for this and possibly record a video.

Conclusion: RGB is DEFINITELY worth it! And if an old, crappy CRT TV can be turned into an Arcade-like monitor by cutting/rerouting 3 wires, F--KIN' A! You still need steve's brain to get the exact way to properly set up the inputs, I'll have to stop by the chatroom some time and pick his brain for ideas, but yeah, it works beautifully in the case of this particular TV. No guarantee it'll be as easy or that I'll get the same results for my 32" TV, but I'm gonna try it some time now that it worked for this 13" model!

Oh yes, as far as specs, the 13" TV is made by some no-name brand "Orion" and was manufactured in 2003 (No, not in China, Thailand actually). It's mono, has 2 jacks in front for audio and Composite, and one RF jack in the back, that's it. Pretty cheap.
« Last Edit: July 16, 2014, 01:28:00 AM by NightWolve »

Medic_wheat

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Re: PVM Raffle UPDATE
« Reply #52 on: July 17, 2014, 03:03:55 AM »
UPDATE:

The drawing may be held for the end of next week will let people know next Friday.

Reason for speed up on drawing is because my wife and I have had interviews for transfering to another city (bigger).  If our request are accepted we will be moving and most likely starting these positions begining of August.  Less stuff I need to move the better.....

I will have my interveiw next Thursday and we expect to know if it is a hard yes/no by the end of that week. 

PunkicCyborg

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Re: PVM Raffle UPDATE
« Reply #53 on: July 18, 2014, 08:57:30 AM »
Have you attempted this yourself?  I might have to see about moding my CRT tv that I am keeping seeing how it is bigger........

YUP, I can now say yes and it IS beautiful!!!! I got interested the other night, and said what the hell, let's give it a shot after I remembered I had an old 13" CRT lying around, unused (they're ALL "monitors" technically now, not TVs, since the analog-to-digital signal switch; their tuners are defunct, so they're only good for whatever video inputs they have). I didn't wanna first experiment with my 32" entertainment center TV, so this was perfect, if I broke it I wouldn't give a shit.

So you need a CRT TV with at least a yellow Composite input jack. Following the lead of the guy that did it on his, I targeted that PCB that's connected to the tube that drives the electron guns.



My PCB was very simple in design and I could actually follow it a bit. There are 3 transistors, 3 big high-watt resistors at 15 kOhms in between the power to the transistors and the emitters were jumped over to go right to the guns. There were 'R' 'G' and 'B' labels and following them back to a set of 5 wires, I could make a good guess as to which of the 3 were for RGB. Like him, they weren't colored specifically, mine were all gray, but I used markers and nail polish to color them accordingly:



That PCB can come off as he did there above, but if there is enough labeling on the backside, better to leave it alone. But yeah, for research, you may have to in order to get a better look on the topside of the PCB. I had to since that's where the labeling was and I didn't wanna make any mistakes.

So I clip the 3 wires I was pretty sure are the RGB lines, I brought my SNES out, had to tap the standard RGB outputs as I didn't have the SCART cable that the Multi-AV out supported, hooked up the Composite jack, connected the 3 wires up once I had everything in position and gave it a shot!! Well, the only hiccup was that the signal was too strong/bright, so I turned down the pot for brightness at this thing:



That's the only adjustment I had to make. Never touch the pot for focus, but this you can as it's essentially the "master brightness" set at the factory. I wouldn't recommend this, but I did it cause I didn't care about going back and turning down the brightness digitally via the TV's digital menu system, nor could I at that point!

See, once you clip those RGB lines from the motherboard, you are no longer going to get the benefit of the OCD Operating System of the TV, the menus to control sound, video, channel adding/delete, that's all disconnected and your console is in full direct control of whatever is shown, so to do the mod right, you need a switch that reconnects those 3 wires so you can reset everything to its defaults and change something as need be.

The results: So just after turning down the brightness, I tried many SNES games I had handy, and I gotta tell ya, it was beautiful, like arcade or close to emulator mode. Many details were readable, like in "Super Street Fighter II," Dee Jay's "Maximum" labeled on his pants (never noticed that before)! There were ZERO issues about green levels or tint or black levels, it was all perfect after brightness adjustment! Pure RGB goodness.

Now, I am confused, I had that SNES still unfinished for a Component mod, but this seems so much better. And what to do about my Turbo Duo, to date, nobody has shown me what is the best RGB amplifier circuit for it and I think I would like to have one now, but I already picked out the real estate for the Component jacks to use steve's circuit, so I'd have to use the DIN for RGB if I wanted it or something... :/



My shit was way better than that!! Way better, games like "Super Mario World" came alive, solid, clean colors, no wavy interference, clear, crisp, shimmering completely gone, etc. I would reconnect the lines and then compare with Composite, so of course I got highly contrasting results as even S-Video/Component improve things quite a bit from Composite. Differences wouldn't be so stark going from S-Video/YPbPr to RGB as they are from Composite being the point.

Anyhow, I *think* I might try to make a thread for this and possibly record a video.

Conclusion: RGB is DEFINITELY worth it! And if an old, crappy CRT TV can be turned into an Arcade-like monitor by cutting/rerouting 3 wires, F--KIN' A! You still need steve's brain to get the exact way to properly set up the inputs, I'll have to stop by the chatroom some time and pick his brain for ideas, but yeah, it works beautifully in the case of this particular TV. No guarantee it'll be as easy or that I'll get the same results for my 32" TV, but I'm gonna try it some time now that it worked for this 13" model!

Oh yes, as far as specs, the 13" TV is made by some no-name brand "Orion" and was manufactured in 2003 (No, not in China, Thailand actually). It's mono, has 2 jacks in front for audio and Composite, and one RF jack in the back, that's it. Pretty cheap.

Nice work but just be careful working on that CRT chassis especially if you don't even know what the thing is you adjusted the brightness on is called (the flyback) which holds a very high charge. The average person shouldn't do this kind of work as it is very dangerous especially if the tube is not discharged properly and it is not safe to do any soldering anywhere even the yoke pcb if it's not discharged. Might want to include those kind of warnings if you do make a guide
(19:28:25) GE0: superdead told me in whisper that his favorite game is mario paint

Joe Redifer

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Re: PVM Raffle UPDATE
« Reply #54 on: July 18, 2014, 10:51:01 AM »
Very true. How do you properly discharge a CRT tube?

PunkicCyborg

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Re: PVM Raffle UPDATE
« Reply #55 on: July 18, 2014, 10:56:34 AM »
Very true. How do you properly discharge a CRT tube?
You have to disconnect the anode cab from the tube with a flathead screwdriver that has a wire attached to it and to the monitor frame. There's lots of good guides online and videos on youtube on how to do it safely but it's still not something most people should be attempting
(19:28:25) GE0: superdead told me in whisper that his favorite game is mario paint

roflmao

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Re: PVM Raffle UPDATE
« Reply #56 on: July 18, 2014, 04:41:22 PM »
Back when I worked as a tech for Chuck E Cheese I was always nervous about working on monitors because of how much they stressed it was very dangerous to work on them during training. Punkic is right re: grounding a screwdriver to the frame, but I always flinched a bit when I had to do it. :)

spenoza

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Re: PVM Raffle UPDATE
« Reply #57 on: July 20, 2014, 04:55:03 PM »
So, how does the picture on a unit like this compare to the picture on something like a Sony Trinitron WEGA or similar?
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EvilEvoIX

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Re: PVM Raffle UPDATE
« Reply #58 on: July 20, 2014, 05:05:18 PM »
NICE add me!


Quote from: ProfessorProfessorson
I already dropped him a message on there and he did not reply back, so f*ck him, and his cunt wife.

Medic_wheat

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Re: PVM Raffle UPDATE
« Reply #59 on: August 01, 2014, 03:49:12 AM »
Really quick anyone know a good randomizer I can use to figure out the winner of this raffle?