SOLD OUT: PCE/Turbografx RGB THS7374 amps and cables

[mickcris]

bump

[spawnshop]

I want to get one!

I'm currently using this converter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D86UYBS?keywords=scart%20to%20hdmi&qid=1449860605&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

It works great for my SEGA Genesis, Saturn, PS1, etc. and other consoles on my Samsung TV.  For those consoles i use a CSynce cable.  Do I need to regular cable you offer?  (No sync strip, correct?)

Also, if i install this in the core US T16 unit, will the CD and docking system play through it?  Or do i still have to use the AV Composite on the docking unit?

[mickcris]

I want to get one!

I'm currently using this converter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D86UYBS?keywords=scart%20to%20hdmi&qid=1449860605&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

It works great for my SEGA Genesis, Saturn, PS1, etc. and other consoles on my Samsung TV.  For those consoles i use a CSynce cable.  Do I need to regular cable you offer?  (No sync strip, correct?)

Also, if i install this in the core US T16 unit, will the CD and docking system play through it?  Or do i still have to use the AV Composite on the docking unit?

The regular cable I have, with composite video for sync, would work fine.

If you install in a TG16 then you still can use RGB on the CD games.  You just need to get sound out of the dock.  The way I would do it though would be to install it in the dock so you dont have to use 2 cables.  You would have to rig something up to splice the audio and video back together before your converter, but it wouldnt be too difficult.

[spawnshop]

I want to get one!

I'm currently using this converter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D86UYBS?keywords=scart%20to%20hdmi&qid=1449860605&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

It works great for my SEGA Genesis, Saturn, PS1, etc. and other consoles on my Samsung TV.  For those consoles i use a CSynce cable.  Do I need to regular cable you offer?  (No sync strip, correct?)

Also, if i install this in the core US T16 unit, will the CD and docking system play through it?  Or do i still have to use the AV Composite on the docking unit?

The regular cable I have, with composite video for sync, would work fine.

If you install in a TG16 then you still can use RGB on the CD games.  You just need to get sound out of the dock.  The way I would do it though would be to install it in the dock so you dont have to use 2 cables.  You would have to rig something up to splice the audio and video back together before your converter, but it wouldnt be too difficult.

Cool, thanks for the tips!   I'm OK with getting sound from the Dock.  The extra cable isn't an issue.
But I'm assuming that would only be the CD games and that the hucards would be OK from the core system?

[mickcris]

Yes. That is correct.

[mickcris]

Bump

[Keith Courage]

I'm going to bump this and say that these are the best RGB amps I've ever used. I actually put these amps together myself now for my own use. However, before I started to do that mickris helped me out a lot and I could definitely see the quality in the design. Best picture quality I've seen from any r_g_b amp I've tried.

[mickcris]

Bump

[mickcris]

bump!

[mickcris]

bump.  at the request of leonk, have started the process of updating the amp board to viletim's suggested resistance at the output.  Will look the same as the previous version, but will be more correct.  The old design was not hurting anything, but might as well make it better.  Here is viletim's explanation:
http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=4822.msg34061#msg34061

"Unfortunately the RGB signal the PC Engine is not 0.7 Vpp, it's actually 0.8 Vpp (I know because I bought a PC Engine a few months ago). To compensate for this I suggest attenuating the output slightly. Instead of a 75 ohm resistor in series with the output, you could use 86 ohms in series and 586 ohms to ground. This way it still looks like a 75 ohm output to the outside world. For E24 resistor values try 91 in series and 470 to ground. Not perfect but good enough - 0.67 Vpp is much better than 0.80 Vpp."

[MNKyDeth]

So this 0.8 is with the PCE but since all the other consoles use the same graphics chips this retains also for all consoles after the original PCE correct?

Because we pull the color directly from the chip itself it doesn't get processed through anything but the amp hence the brightness differences?

Just wanted to ask and maybe clarify a bit more. Also, bump

[mickcris]

I'm not a video engineer so not sure if i will explain it correctly but i will try.  But yes, this applies to all PC Engine and TurboGrafx systems.

The standard RGB signal is 0.7 volts.  After amplification on the THS7314 or NJM2267 (both are 6dB amps), this is what the output of the console should be sending to the monitor as it is what it is expecting.
http://www.syncblaster.com/RGBfaq.html

When you amplify the SNES or N64 with one of these amps it produces 0.7v, but when amplifying the signal from the pc engine it is 0.8v.  So the voltage being too high will make the picture too bright.  I have not actually measured it myself, but the output of the PC Engine RGB lines should measure around 0.4v before amplification and on an N64 measure around 0.35v.
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-amplification.htm
The reason the output resistance was changed from 75 ohms to 100 ohms was to compensate for this.  Doing it with the 91 ohm (with 470 ohm parallel to ground) makes it appear to be around 75 ohms to the monitor.  Before this amp was not taking into account that the monitor is also expecting 75 ohms along with 0.7v.  This new design corrects that.  Although the 100 ohm resistors on the output were not going to damage anything.

[thesteve]

it gets a bit more complicated then that
the 6260 uses a Vref-lo and Vref-hi to set the top and bottom of the RGB output, so it can differ between systems, but generally doesnt
also the output rigidity of the 6260 is quite low making its output differ depending on what amp its driving

[mickcris]

I got a sample batch of the new pcbs in the other day.  Have sent a couple out to get some feedback before I make an order for more boards.




they are the same overall size as the old boards

[MNKyDeth]

I made a video installing the new RGB amp. it is a bit long for just an amp. I even cut out a lot of crap because I found out I ramble and apparently I very much like to ramble a lot.

So... Here is the link of me installing the new RGB amp from Mickcris.

Btw, its a bit fuzzy, blurry, but hopefully it is good enough. Let me know your thoughts on youtube and I will try to do more hardware stuff and hopefully, eventually get better cameras and stuff to make it better.