DUO-RX RGB mod not working

[SegaSonic91]

I bought some RGB amps recently and finally got up the courage to attempt the mod on my "spare" DUO-RX.  Problem is, after finishing up, I am getting nothing at all from the system.  It makes the usual sound from the speakers when I turn it off, but it does not respond to anything.  Pressing run after switching on does not even trigger the CD-ROM, but I cannot be sure if there is any power or not thanks to the stupid lack of a power light. 

I am not at home at the moment and forgot to bring one of my RX pads but did get a HORI 6B on Wednesday.  When I plug the pad in, I get a hum through the TV speakers but pressing run does nothing, it could be the pad but I doubt it.  I was afraid of doing the mod in the first place because of the horribly small pins on the 6260 chip and was afraid of screwing the system.  Does it sound like I HAVE screwed the system?  The wires to the chip seem ok, but there may be a bridge or two from where the wire did not stick right away.  Would that cause the problem?  I had some trouble soldering the wires to the R,G and B pins on the DIN8, too.  They just did not seem to want to stick.  Perhaps I need thinner wires, the wires seemed to want to fray no matter how much I twisted them.

Any held and advice on this matter would be much appreciated!  I want to experience the glory of PCE RGB on my latest TV pick up; a Loewe Calida 5684Z.  It's a 100Hz model, BUT, it has the chassis/firmware that gives a pure 60Hz picture through RGB!  It has a big, gorgeous screen and all my other consoles look amazing on it

[mickcris]

Post some high res pictures of your install.

Probably your iron temp isn't set high enough for the pins to heat up enough on the din.

You should also use solid core wire to do this.  I use 26awg Kynar wire usually, but 30awg is also fine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Color-Assortment-26AWG-Solid-Kynar-Insulated-Electronic-Hobby-or-Crafts-Wire-/261960321651

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-X-30-ft-Kynar-30-awg-wire-10-Color-4-test-jig-PCB-/260772993098

[MNKyDeth]

I agree with mickcris. The wire selection is important for ease of use.

I also think having the proper tools helps a lot here as well. A variable temp soldering iron can help but dealing directly on the chip legs with these wires I found that having proper tweezers helps a ton.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VETUS-ESD-Safe-Anti-static-Stainless-Steel-Tweezers-Maintenance-Repair-Set-/381294130884?var=&hash=item58c6e6b6c4:m:mFRKHgE2bossdtCbOlauxxw



Take the wire like mentioned above, trim off roughly 2mm of the outer cover with some wire strippers. Twist the wire tight with your fingers. Then use a flux pen and coat the tip of the wire. Then apply the iron and solder to the end of the wire. Just a quick touch is plenty to get a solder coating "tinning" on the wire. I use some locking tweezers to hold the wire while I use both hands for the solder and iron.

Once I have that done I use the above tweezers in the link above to hold the wire and steadily apply heat. Once you see the solder on the wire melt remove the iron, blow gently on the wire to help the solder harden faster. This usually allows for quick and secure connection without excess solder on the pins. If the iron is not hot enough it will not heat the leg you are trying to connect the wire to. This will make a bad connection or no connection at all. So you may have to hold for slightly longer to make sure the leg gets sufficiently hot so the solder flows on to it from the wire.

If you get a mess of solder on the pins use some solder braid to help remove it. But by using only the solder from tinning this should not be a problem.

This is the end result with one of the Duo-R's I have recently RGB modded. I think I trimmed slightly more than 2mm on the wires and I used a dab of flux on the legs of the Hu6260 chip.


I should also mention. I also use a multimeter that has an audio signal for continuity. I can then test each leg to make sure I did not bridge them together. If I hear audio on the neighboring leg of the 6260 then I used to much solder and I need to redo the connection. Do one at a time and be patient. Steady hands help.

[mickcris]

I really dont think using stranded wire is a good idea for soldering directly to the chip.  if you use solid core wire, no need to twist it.

flux is also a really good idea as mentioned above.  get some kester 951.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kester-951-Soldering-Flux-Pen-Low-Solids-No-Clean-10ml-Xbox-360-and-PS3-Reflows-/191293097438

here what it looks like with kynar on the most recent duo i modded:

[MNKyDeth]

Thanks mickcris, I will have to look into that wire.

I was mostly using this stuff as it seemed to work for me. Although I can see from the pics there is most likely some added difficulty with what I am using.

[mickcris]

Thanks mickcris, I will have to look into that wire.

I was mostly using this stuff as it seemed to work for me. Although I can see from the pics there is most likely some added difficulty with what I am using.

no problem.  stranded wire doesn't really like to stay in place which is probably why you are having to hold it with tweezers.  I like the kynar too as its already pre tinned (silver coated).  Kynar is pretty much the standard modding wire.  Its what most people use to install modchips.  You defiantly should pick some up.

[SegaSonic91]

Thanks for the replies guys.  I will get some solid core wire and do the install again.  No wonder it was being such a pain in the butt!  Duh.  I did have the temp on my soldering iron quite high, but it I guess the wire type did not help.  My flux pen was strangely absent from my little box of soldering bits and pieces too, which again I am sure did not help.  I am feeling a bit of a fool at the moment for doing this without the right pieces!  :oops:  And here I thought I was being so careful with everything.  I did check and double check that the DIN8 was soldered in to place properly.

I only have my crappy iPhone 4 to take pictures with at the moment as my camera is back at home.  I might just re-do everything once I get the solid core and a new flux pen tomorrow and post pics if I am still getting nothing.  I am worried about the possible bridging on the C6260 and how I will fix it.  What would be the best way to in-bridge the pins without damage?  Just use a solder sucker?  Also, I took sync from pin 55, is there somewhere better to get it from?  Thanks to everyone for all the help!  I am glad I did not bother trying to do my SuFami Jr last night, now. 

Edit: I missed the part about using de-soldering braid on the chip, that's the best way to get rid of the solder that may be bridging it?  And damn, that picture of your install is damn clean and pretty mickcris!  I did not get a chance to let you know that I received my amps or leave a comment as I stupidly left my laptop at home.

[mickcris]

how are you doing the sync?  did you cut the trace to the composite video pin and wire c-sync to it?  you should just need to wire the r,g, and b pins to the port as the other 5 signals are already there.

normally if bridge a pin, i just put some flux on it and drag the iron away from the chip.
see here: 

also make sure you aren't using a huge iron tip to do this install.  You dont want the temp really high when soldering on the chip too.  I was just talking about the DIN port.

This is the tip i use on my weller iron:
http://www.alliedelec.com/apex-tool-group-mfr-etr/70219898/
its small and works well for me

[SegaSonic91]

I did not cut the trace.  So I should use the install method that is shown on Otaku Store?  I used pin 55 on the C6260 as shown in doujindance's install video.  I wondered if the sync could have been the problem... 

I have a 0.5mm tip and a thin chisel tip.  I am using the 0.5mm tip at the moment.  I had the iron set to around 300-350C.  I was going to ask for tips BEFORE doing the install, I wish I had. Subs I would not be feeling like such a stooopid noob right now  :oops:  I will try this all again and hope it works properly 

[mickcris]

all you need to do is connect RGB to the pins on the din connector to where they are labeled.  and the rgb wires and ground and 5v to the rgb amp board.  Composite video (used for sync) is on one of the original pins from the DIN5.  since you are using this on a TV, you probably want to use composite video anyway.

here are  a couple of general guides.

http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/core-grafx-rgb-mod/
http://cdn-12.create.net/sitefiles/12/8/9/128972/pcergbmod.pdf

i dont recall duojindance connecting sync somewhere else.  i will see if i can find that video.  i know otaku store wires there rgb lines on the din different than just about everyone else.  but the rest of their guide is probably ok.

here are some pics of a duo-r i did a while ago.  ignore the region switch
http://imgur.com/a/tQiml#0

i try to keep my temp around 500 deg f (which would be about 260c) so 300c is good. you may need turn it up a bit more when soldering the wires to the extra legs of the din port.

edit:
i looked and pin 55 is ground.  so you grounded your sync signal.  most likely why its not working. duojindance grounded his amp/region mod board to there.

[SegaSonic91]

Thanks for the links and photos.  And crap, I grounded the sync    Moron.  Well, I will fix THAT and see if it works.  If not, I will just do it over when I get the better wire, flux etc tomorrow.  Sorry for all the dumb questions and thank you for your help.  It is very much apreciated.

Edit:  Ugh!  I don't know why I kept saying I put "sync on pin 55", it is connected to ground on the amp.  I think I was getting confused with seeing one of the pins being used for pure sync.  I posted this at 3am and have not had much sleep, this is the result. 

So everything seems to be connected, but with a possibly bridged ground on the HuChip.  55+56 look like they could be bridged, can't find my multimetre at the moment to test properly.

[mickcris]

55 and 56 are both ground so that shouldn't be a problem.
http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=schematics:hu6260_netlist

[SegaSonic91]

Hmmmm, because they are both ground, I thought it might be ok, but was not sure.  Maybe I should try one of the other amps when I re-do it tomorrow?  I just hope that I did not somehow fry the amp board.

[mickcris]

does composite video still work?  do you have the option to try that at the moment.  would be good if you could post some up close pics even if they are from your phone.  they may be good enough to see if something can be spotted.

[SegaSonic91]

Tried composite last night and there was nothing, not even a flicker of the TV.  I will some pics up later today.