I'm so glad that I found this post! I spent the better part of this evening trying to tweak the pots on my CD-ROM2 with very little success. When I initially received it, it wouldn't read any discs at all - even audio CDs. It would do one quick burst spin of the disc & then nothing. Popped it open & the middle gear looked fine & the lens carriage moved pretty smoothly. Ultimately, I came to the conclusion that it must be a dead lens.
I bought a Sony Discman D-34 & quickly harvested its lens. After swapping that out, the CD-ROM2 started coming to life. It started to play a burned copy of Rondo flawlessly. It ended up crapping out about 5 mins in. I started playing with the pots referencing cran's post here:
http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/please-set-disc-on-turboduo.53989/. After several hours of tweaking, I've got audio CDs playing well now but even legit PCECD games take FOREVER to load and the audio promptly cuts out shortly after starting. I'm beginning to think that this is all moot & no amount of potentiometer tweaking is going to help until I replace the caps.
Anyway, the main reason I wanted to contribute to this thread is to let you know that I have 2 TurboGrafx CD drives that generally work well (one better than the other). They both suffer from the audio cutting out sometimes (again, one more than the other) but they load games pretty quickly. I tried matching the potentiometer resistance measurements form one of those on the CD-ROM2 & it was a total bust. Didn't work at all. Again, I'm not sure if this is related to caps... I'll post the resistance measurements from my TurboGrafx CD drives on here later this evening or tomorrow evening. It might at least be helpful to someone.