Being new here I'm not familiar on how active the membership is on a daily or weekly basis, and I see there's been a few thread views since I started it 5 days ago, but unfortunately no-one yet interested enough to comment, bummer . . . but seeing that this particular setup hasn't already been discussed here much at all previously, I was prepared that I might not get much help, if any, though I was hoping I'd get lucky and find some.
In the meantime, to continue . . . after receiving the boards and parts, I went ahead and hastily put one together just so I could do some testing. Unfortunately, when connected using the component output, the sync which was being stripped from the composite video signal input and mixed back into the Y channel was so far off I couldn't play anything at all. But that was my fault (I'll explain the mistakes later in detail), so after a little tweak on the initial setup (the image below shows the very long yellow sync wire I added), I was able to get the component out to work on my 73" Mitsubishi WD-73837 DLP TV. I was ecstatic, and impressed it was working so well!
Oh, and if smaller sized images or differently formatted ones are preferred, please let me know a better way to post them.
RGB to Component test setup 1:
The first mistake I made was purchasing the wrong size LM1881 sync stripper chips, as I didn't realize there were several sizes. I purchased LM1881M chips, and the board it seems were made to accept the larger LM1881N size. So in the image you can see the spider-like legs I used to solder the smaller chip to the board . . . I figure the smaller one would still work connected like this since I believe the chips are identical in all other aspects except size.
But when hooked up the original setup without adding that yellow sync wire pictured, and I didn't get sync . . . I believed it was caused because I read one of two resistor requirements in line with the LM1881 chip incorrectly, one was listed as 680, a second as 680K . . . I put 680 OHM resistors in both those positions, and I didn't have any 680K resistors to replace it. So instead, I just connected that long yellow wire directly from the SYNC output pin to the Y output pin.
After that sync wire was added, I immediately had a stable image, and pretty nice picture!
However, there are still some slight sync issues with some games (which seems to be typical for other mods and the same games as well), but usually for just brief moments or in certain areas, and mostly do not interfere with game play. Though I have only tried a handful of games, so I'm sure there will be more, and maybe some worse, than I've already come across.
I'll have to go back and find more and maybe I can get some photos of it, but one sure example is in the opening cut scenes in Neutopia where the lightening flash happens. Not sure anyone has gotten any component mod with 100% perfect sync on all games at all times, or if it's even possible, but I'd like to find out if there is anything I could try to possibly lessen the sync issues, even if they cannot be totally eliminated altogether.
Then there's definitely some color issues where I can hopefully find some tweaks to correct or lessen too, where some games are too dark, and colors are definitely not where they should be.
I realize taking photos of my large screen TV image while the game is running is not an ideal situation for someone else to view that image on their own monitor or TV and be able to accurately diagnose color issues, but not sure what can be done about that.
Here are a few images I had taken the first time I got the mod to work. I captured these on my cell phone, and because the TV screen is so large, the brightness of the image towards the upper or lower portions are darker than I was seeing them because of the change in viewing angle from where the camera was held and pictures taken. Pictures are also a little more blurry than what I was seeing at full size here on my screen too.
Galaga Composite :
Galaga Component :
Bonk Composite :
Bonk Component :
