Dilemma with DUO

[atman]

I have a PC Engine Duo system. I RGB modded it, placed a mini-din at the back and it works perfect!
Did not bother to recap it at that time. I checked the caps and they where originals, did not see any leaks.

The DUO works perfect, no issues with the CD-part. No problems with CD-R either.

The question is, should I recap it. I dont like to fix something that is not broken. But in the other hand, any cap can start leaking at any time.

What should I do?
It is better to use trough-hole electrolyt caps rather than original surface ones? Modern SMC will leak eventually as well?

[ClodBuster]

Just take a look at the mantra in my sig.




Jokes aside, the local dude who recapped my Duo used SMD ceramic caps wherever possible, if I recall it correctly. I think he even did the same preemptively when he modded my PAL SNES for NTSC games and 50/60 Hz.

My Duo crapped some years after that, must be something with the power regulators. Since I had other stuff to do, I havent't repaired it when I moved in 2014.

Oh and since the SNES was modded, I couldn't get any color for 50 Hz via Composite and S-Video anymore (only luma left), but RGB lines were still working. 60 Hz however is still sending color signals via all cables. But a lot of PAL games are optimised some way or another for 50 Hz and will freak out on 60 Hz.
I tried on a variety of Euro TVs (CRT and LCD) that accept pretty much any signals you threw on them, be it formatted in NTSC-60, PAL-50, PAL-60, whatever, via all of their input jacks.

I should get up and either try the repairs by myself or let my console repair guy have another look.
Please keep in mind I'm not claiming that these symptoms would be in any relation to the recaps, I'm just doing some brainstorming.

If you guys know anything about why there shouldn't be ceramics, please let me know.





TL;DR: Get your Duo recapped ASAP before it releases the shmoo. Sometimes you'll not see it easily since it builds up underneath the old caps, eating slowly through the PCB. This was the case for me.

[gtsamour]

Do the recap ASAP. Use surface mount ones of a known quality brand (like Panasonic) if you can get your hands on them. Got mine from Console5.

I would avoid the through caps, the pads can get ripped off easily if you accidentally (or not) bent any caps.

[Necromancer]

I'd do caps now rather than risk 'em leaking and damaging the pcb or other parts before it's noticed.

[SignOfZeta]

I get no enjoyment from recapping and see no point in it in %90 of cases. It has become a fad and people now recap everything to ridiculous excess.

However the black Duos are absolutely in that area where I would do the recap ASAP. Black Duos and Laseractive PACs, Express/GT. I can't remember if SGX is in this category or not.

[atman]

I get no enjoyment from recapping and see no point in it in %90 of cases. It has become a fad and people now recap everything to ridiculous excess.

However the black Duos are absolutely in that area where I would do the recap ASAP. Black Duos and Laseractive PACs, Express/GT. I can't remember if SGX is in this category or not.

That is my opinion as well. But it seems that NEC got semi bad quality caps at the time the DUO was produced so I'll do a recap. Ordered from console5. Think its the cheapest way to get good branded caps. Local dealers are super expensive and ebay things are china caps. They probably will do fine but my DUO is worth good branded caps. Went for SMC ones from console5.

[gtsamour]

Well buying from ebay doesn't necessarily mean you get counterfeit capacitors. There are legitimate sellers on ebay selling genuine Panasonic, Nichicon etc caps, you just need to be careful, read the negative feedback of the seller and look for any fake caps reports.

Also pay attention to the pattern the brand you're buying uses on top of the cap (search on google pictures) and compare to the one the caps from ebay you're looking to buy. For example Panasonic uses a "T" like pattern with curved top. If there is a match, they're genuine. The more uncommon the pattern, the more certain you can be. (unless there is an X pattern or something which is easily reproducible I suppose).
In general, find a picture of a genuine one and compare small details. Fake caps never get to close to look like originals, to the trained eye ofcourse.

Don't buy from a a seller that has a generic picture.

I have bought many cap kits from Console5, they are really good. I also bought caps from ebay (from two different sellers) after careful inspection... the caps were genuine.

[atman]

Recieved my kit from Console5. Seems to be nice quality caps.
Ordered a new "memory" cap aswell. The original is rated 5.5V 0.047F, the replacement says 5.5V 0.22F. Does it mean its compatible? Seems that the replacement are a bit more powerful. Does that mean that it can hold memory for a longer period?


Changed 1/3 of the caps and I've seen some initial leakage. Nothing more than minimal impact on the pads.. So it was just in time.

Also change the two 7805 to neat switched ones. 4.8V did the original output and got really hot. New ones goes at 5V exactly and are cool.

[mario_pic]

recap it or u will be crying  the crap inside them eats the copper and loads it with oxides  so basicly goes brittle also the crap thay pisses out of them can damage the threw holes on the pcb  or cause shorts so unless u want to do a more expensive repair for it totaly dead id do it early and done professionaly  or by some one who is mot going to hack it together

I have a PC Engine Duo system. I RGB modded it, placed a mini-din at the back and it works perfect!
Did not bother to recap it at that time. I checked the caps and they where originals, did not see any leaks.

The DUO works perfect, no issues with the CD-part. No problems with CD-R either.

The question is, should I recap it. I dont like to fix something that is not broken. But in the other hand, any cap can start leaking at any time.

What should I do?
It is better to use trough-hole electrolyt caps rather than original surface ones? Modern SMC will leak eventually as well?

[atman]

Recapped the whole console now. There was initial leak from a few caps, nothing major. All pads where intact.

Works great now and its also got fresh voltage regulators.