I was thinking that as well actually. What are the cons of using tantalum caps?
From what I remember they're less forgiving to voltage spikes, but you can just pay more for models with higher breakdown voltages. If max breakdown is 16V, doesn't hurt to buy a bigger one at 32V with same capacitance value. There are other details but we need an EE pro to answer.
One useful pro-tip I learned from Steve is if you at least target the 4 power-related capacitors in a Turbo Express, you can get rid of that annoying hum sound when a game is paused, that you hear very clearly when using headphones. Thought that was interesting, I remember that hum from early on after playing my TE.
Thing is, Steve does the whole PCB using tantalums, but he knows what he's doing! For us "hacks" with solder irons, we're probably better off staying in our lanes and sticking with regular caps, preferably not be cheap and pay more for low-ESR Panasonic caps which are much better for the PCB!
If you care about your NEC hardware working for as long as possible, you'll pay for premium Panasonic instead of cheap Chinese as I almost did.
Any tuts for CD pots adjusting and PCE GT Lion battery mod?
Any tips you mean for those 3 potentiometers related to the CD laser ??
Yeah actually, but do you have an oscilloscope ? Cause then you can adjust them like a pro to the best possible setting instead of going by "gut" where if a burned CD-R is working that's "good enough."
Le Steve has a video somewhere demonstrating his technique which turbokon also learned and made his own video if I recall correctly. We have the regular guide if you search the forum to adjust them without an oscilloscope.
I would wait before messing with them, test CD games first. For sure if you change the laser or CD-Rs stop working, you'll have to try your luck but I'm not sure you need adjustment after a full capacitor replacement job.
