Author Topic: help getting started in homebrew!!  (Read 1923 times)

Charlie

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #30 on: August 03, 2009, 12:15:48 AM »
ahhhh....yes.  Is there a problem with that?  I'm sure it's not illegal or anything like that (is it?)

Also got some prelim bank encoding working, now need to see if I can combine the two; maybe put a Gosub in each of the banks; maybe put a series of Gosubs to all the other banks, in each bank.

Note that I've repeated: this is prelim!

Charlie
« Last Edit: August 03, 2009, 12:20:24 AM by Charlie »

Arkhan

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #31 on: August 03, 2009, 01:47:28 AM »
no theres no problem.  I just want to have one :)
[Fri 19:34]<nectarsis> been wanting to try that one for awhile now Ope
[Fri 19:33]<Opethian> l;ol huge dong

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Charlie

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #32 on: August 03, 2009, 09:43:43 AM »
Well, it's a little early for that.  Remember this thing is still prelim (hmm, I may have mentioned that once or twice); I still have a lot of software tests to run to be sure the hardware does what it should.

If you're looking for an IDE type environment, you'll need more that just this board.  If you just want something-a-prom-can-plug-into, the board alone would be ok, but you still need someway to program the prom itself.

Either way, you need the appropriate progs to create/compile/assemble/link your source code.

Charlie

Arkhan

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #33 on: August 04, 2009, 11:16:26 AM »
what programs are you using to test things?
[Fri 19:34]<nectarsis> been wanting to try that one for awhile now Ope
[Fri 19:33]<Opethian> l;ol huge dong

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Charlie

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #34 on: August 05, 2009, 12:22:10 AM »
I have two so far, both include different bank setups with single level gosubs and write/read of ram.  I still need to test nested gosubs (say, 20 deep).  Next step after that would probably be IO, or maybe video.

By the way, I'm sure you know that there are numerous HuCard "equivalents" already available out there; I found a bunch of them via Google.

Charlie

Charlie

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #35 on: August 05, 2009, 01:35:25 PM »
Status update, "Hello TE World!":





Charlie

Arkhan

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #36 on: August 05, 2009, 02:04:40 PM »
sweetness.

You just using HuC/PCEAS and sending code over? or how is it all working.


I am intrigued :)
[Fri 19:34]<nectarsis> been wanting to try that one for awhile now Ope
[Fri 19:33]<Opethian> l;ol huge dong

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Charlie

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #37 on: August 06, 2009, 12:24:20 AM »
Happy to oblige.

What you don't see off-screen is a PromEmulator.  That, of course, connects to the PC.  So, I write my stuff in ASM, assemble it with PCEAS which of course creates a ".pce" file, download that file to the PromEmulator via the parallel port, then run it. (The download and run is of course controlled by the Windows app on the PC).
When it runs, it resets the TE (that's the blue wire - this way I don't have to keep turning the TE power on and off), then runs the my proggie.

Lot's of caveats here though.  I said in a previous post I had tested "bank switching", but maybe not.  I'm a bit confused with the terminology; it may be "page switching".  Also, the proper term might actually be "jumping" instead of "switching".  Basically, in my test proggies, I'm assigning?/defining?/congifuring? the standard 2k blocks?/sections?/pages?/banks? in the EProm to various sections-of-useable-memory (MMU?/TAM?) indexes in an attempt to prove I can jump around the EProm cleanly.  One example:

Start at $E000 Logical, $0000 Physical
Jump to $C000 Logical, $2000 Physical
Jump to $A000 Logical, $4000 Physical
Jump to $8000 Logical, $6000 Physical

So, did I jump banks or pages?  Or maybe blocks?  And, I'm pretty sure I have NOT switched /bank/pages; correct?

So, I'm not yet sure that capability exists.  Also, I'd like to test the use of more than just four of the 2k blocks/pages, but I have not looked into that yet.  And, of course, I still need to test sound and joypad.  But all that may have to wait until I am more confident in my software knowledge.

Just had a thought!  The above IS what you were asking, right?  Or did you want to know more about the PCB itself?

Charlie


Arkhan

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #38 on: August 06, 2009, 06:55:42 AM »
the specifics for sending data over are what I am curious about.  Because that would be a way nicer way to test games/code than on an emulator!

I am very awful at explaining things, so I don't want to confuse you with trying to explain the answer to your question.   :)  Its pretty bad usually when I go about explaining technical stuff.
 
I think if Tom or Ccovell post, they will answer in a way that makes sense....
[Fri 19:34]<nectarsis> been wanting to try that one for awhile now Ope
[Fri 19:33]<Opethian> l;ol huge dong

I'm a max level Forum Warrior.  I'm immortal.
If you're not ready to defend your claims, don't post em.

Charlie

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #39 on: August 06, 2009, 09:15:13 AM »
Well, there are indications that the emulator I was using was not faithfully reproducing the functionality of the TE hardware, so I made the "mini-card".  As I mentioned above, I cannot confirm  to what degree it actually emulates a full blown HU card, and, at the time, that was not a concern of mine anyway.

As for the "sending data", the data goes to the PromEmulator, which is a commercial piece of hardware I purchased a while back for many hundreds of $$.  (That's why my previous post mentioned finding a do-it-yourself unit on the 'net).  That's what connects to the PC parallel port.  The emulator is actually a pack of ram chips that are "programmed" with the code by virtue of simply storing the data into them, just like any ram.  When you run the emulator, the RAM acts as a prom simply by disabling the write function and outputting their data (the program) on the data lines, based on the address the TE cpu sends, just like prom.  Consider programming an Eprom chip and plugging it into the socket instead of the ribbon cable; same difference, but you get real-time debugging capability.

I suspect that, to emulate a full blown HU card, so as to run prom-dump games, I will need a lot more complex board.  But, since that was not a requirement at the time, and given that I'm writing the stuff in ASM, and not using any of the HUC libraries, etc, I can write a LOT of code in 32K of prom...as soon as I get a better grasp of the required software manipulations of the hardware, specifically of that "bank switch" stuff.

After re-reading my previous post, I realize my question was not to clear anyway.  I should probably wait until I know a bit more, so as to ask questions more clearly.


Charlie

TheOldMan

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #40 on: August 26, 2010, 11:12:09 AM »
The most important part of the layout is the connector represented by the "fingers" of track at the bottom of the board.  You need to exactly match the size, spacing and position of the original HU card so your PCB will slide dead center into the TG.  This problem is easily(?) resolved by track positions within 0.003 inches (that's 3 one-thousandths of an inch!).
Wow. I think I'd have to create the PCB etching mask at a much larger scale, then shrink it down to get that kind of tolerance.

A more significant problem is the realization that the PCB thickness is NOT the standard 0.032 inches or 0.064 inches, but is in fact 0.096 inches. 

I don't think anyone here would have a problem with two boards glued together. Nice to know that I can run traces on both sides of the main board, and protect the bottom traces with unplated PCB.

Quote
You should get a 90+% board yield, just probably not on your first try.
Heck I'd be happy with 1 good board out of 6 on the first try. Later runs would need a better yield to make it
break even economically (can't afford too much scrap), that's why I asked.

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...The first is that the TG is 5V on the HUcard ports, so generally you want to use 5V parts.  The second is that there is a commercially available programmable card that uses 3.3V parts, but has the ability to work compatably with 5V stuff.  However, those parts are very expensive.

That's what I was afraid of. Nobody could afford a HuCard style game if the basic board cost $50.00 to make.
But, I think I'll look into lot prices on 27256 eeproms.  If they're not too much ( I remember buying them from Radio Shack at a buck or two each), maybe I'll see about actually doing this...

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The particular board in that picture includes a RAM chip.....

That's what I thought, and all I can say is ..sweet... No more 8K limit for all the program variables. I could map the Ram into the upper pages, and use it as sound / graphics buffers.
Unpack the stuff for each level into the card RAM, and send it where it's needed.!


Charlie

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #41 on: August 26, 2010, 09:31:24 PM »
"I think I'd have to create the PCB etching mask at a much larger scale"
Not necessary.  Today's PCB layout programs are good to 1/2 of one-thousandths of an inch.

"Nobody could afford a HuCard style game if the basic board cost $50.00 to make"
Depends upon the board house.  Some will do prototype boards for ~$35; you get 2-5 boards.  My prototypes were considerably more than $50 for 2 boards, but I paid for upgrades. (Notice that those upgrades did NOT include a silk screen!)

"No more 8K limit for all the program variables"
Well, ok.  But remember that to get that block of ram, you give up a block of rom.  And, you can't necessarily take a 1 MB prom, add some ram of 8KB bytes, and expect to have 1MB-8KB of usuable prom left over.  Check your address decoding. 

I'm interested in the hardware details of your intended card.  Do you intend to program your eproms somehow, and then solder them onto the board?  Otherwise you need a socket.  Just remember that my product was for program development purposes, yours is apparently for resale, so our efforts are in parallel, but not duplicates.

Charlie
« Last Edit: August 26, 2010, 09:38:14 PM by Charlie »

TheOldMan

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #42 on: August 27, 2010, 12:59:24 AM »
Quote
... yours is apparently for resale...

Not necessarily. It would depend on how well it worked out. But it's easier to justify if I approach it as a commercial product. And, if I make a good enough case for it, I might be able to talk someone I know into putting up $$ for the equipment (ie, etching kit, eprom programmer, etc). Otherwise, I might have to do most of it -completely- from scratch. (DIY eeprom programmers are all over the net)

My thoughts about this run sorta like this:
We Know it CAN be done. No One has shown a commercial product, though. We've seen carts for the various systems produced by homebrew devs, so, why not the pce?
Well, the first problem is cost; to even get it off the ground, you need an eprom programmer, some way to create the pcbs, and the parts. It might be neat to do for fun or research, but if its going to be 'commercial' it would have to be done at a very low cost.
Low cost doesn't necessarily mean cheapest possible, but it does mean I have to minimize cost. That implies that getting someone to produce one-off proto boards is out - even assuming really good pricing, based on your figures, it's still about $5 a board. And after our experiences with getting CDs replicated, we're pretty leery about using outside people for production. That's why I was asking about etching the boards myself.

As for the boards themselves, I figure we would need a couple of dev boards, using UV Eproms; Say 5 for
easing the calculations. A 256Kbit EEPROM like that runs around $5.00. But, once the code is working and tested, we can switch over to OTP EEproms, and cut that cost down to about $3.00 each.
And yes, sockets are a necessity! (I've blown too many chips by overheating them, in a hurry to get the circuit built. Sockets help prevent such disasters ) So are pin-compatible parts.

I didn't see much else on the board you built; If we figure $10.00 for complete parts to do it all (per board, and yes that's probably overpriced), and another $5.00 for the pcbs (again, probably overpriced) we're looking
at $15.00 per board.

Well, you get the idea, I hope. It cost about $600.00 to get insanity pressed; I figure I could do this, even buying a 'cheap' eeprom burner for that amount. So, assuming we make 20 cards, they would have to sell for
$30.00 each, which I don't really think is overpriced, to cover our investment. (And probably make a profit at that). So it's definitely economically doable. I just have to convince a couple of people to come up with the money :-)

As for the hardware side of it, I can see why you chose the eeproms you did. Almost all of the signals are straight runs directly to the chips, especially if you reverse the traces ala the JP pce. I -think- If I go with
a double-sided board, I can reverse the data lines 'underneath', and make a dual us/jp board. And, if I split the address space in half (we are using less than 1/2 of the available), I can add an inverter on A20 to select the
chips: upper half would be RAM, lower would be ROM. Not an ideal solution (and probably not for the first cards), and something to think about for later, but definitely doable.

My plans would be to take the cycle demo Aetherbyte has, burn it on a UV-EPROM (In case it doesn't work), and use the dev boards to make sure the game works, in both US and JP pces. Once we know that that works, and have some experience doing it, we could then start working on a Hucard game, much the same way we are doing with the retro pack. Something simple, but fun.

And then, of course, offer it for sale here, to the people who love the pce. I get the knowledge gained, they get a 'real' HuCard game, and, of course,  Arkhan gets bragging rights :-)


edit: I was looking at the chips and their pricing. I assume 70ns would be fast enough (they're not that much more expensive than the 100ns ones). Think those would be okay for High Speed mode? I seem to remember running 150ns Ram in a 4MHz a long time ago, but want to double check.
« Last Edit: August 27, 2010, 01:04:57 AM by TheOldMan »

Charlie

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #43 on: August 27, 2010, 10:52:00 AM »
OK, OK, OK, OK, and etc...

The clock speed in the TG is less than 8MHz.  (I assume you can do the math).

Charlie

Arkhan

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Re: help getting started in homebrew!!
« Reply #44 on: August 27, 2010, 10:53:21 AM »
. It cost about $600.00 to get insanity pressed; I figure I could do this, even buying a 'cheap' eeprom burner for that amount. So, assuming we make 20 cards, they would have to sell for
$30.00 each, which I don't really think is overpriced, to cover our investment. (And probably make a profit at that). So it's definitely economically doable. I just have to convince a couple of people to come up with the money :-)
All in all it was about 1000$ to get it pressed, + all the legal fees! 

Quote
I get the knowledge gained, they get a 'real' HuCard game, and, of course,  Arkhan gets bragging rights :-)


we'd all get bragging rights.
[Fri 19:34]<nectarsis> been wanting to try that one for awhile now Ope
[Fri 19:33]<Opethian> l;ol huge dong

I'm a max level Forum Warrior.  I'm immortal.
If you're not ready to defend your claims, don't post em.