Region Mod woes !@!#@$!@#$

[Duo_R]

same chip mmonkey uses



http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/console/pce/region.htm

[pcenginesales]

Well, you are using the same version of the chip for a start.

I'll try to get a picture. But basically yeah, I stack them. Solder the common pins together, the +5V, ground and control pins. Then you wire it all up like the schematic, forgetting the prototyping board.

Then you glue the chips to the underside of the HuCARD pcb on the right side. The rest is exactly like the mod you've already installed.

IF you are going for the neatest looking mod, you can even prewire some 16 pin IC mounts, glue those onto the bottom board and stick the chips in afterwards. I don't see much need for the prototyping board in this case as the circuit is so simple. You're not even adding anything to the circuit but these chips. All circuitry is self contained in the chip and the mod uses lots of wires whether you use the board or not.

I really don't think you could have damaged the chips. If they work from the start, then they work.


But you probably want to replace your power supply too or at least test it after running it for a bit.

Im just really surprised to hear of this issue. I thought everyone here did the IC based mod, the chips are probably easier to get hold of than the huge switch.

And for the Core, when I get a free moment I am going to try to install a switchless mod. Which will of course be IC only.

[TheMilford]

And for the Core, when I get a free moment I am going to try to install a switchless mod. Which will of course be IC only.

Does this mean that it will sense which huCard is inserted and switch itself?

[pcenginesales]

And for the Core, when I get a free moment I am going to try to install a switchless mod. Which will of course be IC only.

Does this mean that it will sense which huCard is inserted and switch itself?

I'm not sure how I would do that. Would have to research how the console identifies the card region, which it obviously does re: a US card won't work on JP PCE without connecting a certain pin to ground. So it knows the cartridges are US region, and it's not just a simple case of pin config swapping.

But it would be a lot of work and I'm not sure it's possible/worth time taken.

I was thinking more along the lines of those mods for other consoles where you hold down combinations of buttons to set the region. I don;t know if the PCE can do it, you'd have to reset the console somehow as well.

It requires looking into and I have no bleeding time atm what with 5 billion SCART cables to make.

[Duo_R]

or does it measure the increase in heart rate when you play an import title and determines region?  

[Duo_R]

not going to be able to do a mod on the IC's detecting region and switching. I do believe this is possible on a Genesis however.

[pcenginesales]

not going to be able to do a mod on the IC's detecting region and switching. I do believe this is possible on a Genesis however.

Possible to somehow force a hardware reset though, a recheck of the card while the system is on? THe engine's natural reset is of course no good because it just reboots the HuCARD. And that reset I'm pretty sure is programmed into each HuCARD and not a hardware thing. Oh well. If it's not possible it's a shame because I hate making holes in Cores.

[Platinumfungi]

Just for info/potential research - I'm not sure about any NEC switchless mods, but these guys sure have a list of switchless mods building up:
http://www.consolepassion.co.uk/modification-switchless.htm

[pceslayer]

I'll attempt to sort out my current issue with interference on my Core over the weekend and I think I'll attempt this one more time.

This time I'll try stacking the chips and tapping them directly into the HU-PCB wiring instead of tapping the pins.

[papa_november]

m the + end of the 10uF capacitor on the HuCARD port board (this part should mean nothing however.)

Every single PCE I've modded in this way is also modded for RGB with a full amp circuit. The amp is placed in between the ribbon cable. I don't use a board for that either!

     Wait- are you really using the full circuit, or are you using this simpler circuit? Because that thing's becoming a nightmare to wire up even with perfboard and I'm thinking of trying the simpler one.

[pcenginesales]

m the + end of the 10uF capacitor on the HuCARD port board (this part should mean nothing however.)

Every single PCE I've modded in this way is also modded for RGB with a full amp circuit. The amp is placed in between the ribbon cable. I don't use a board for that either!

     Wait- are you really using the full circuit, or are you using this simpler circuit? Because that thing's becoming a nightmare to wire up even with perfboard and I'm thinking of trying the simpler one.

Full circuit.

I have this crazy obsession with designing configurations for mods crammed inside of cables and stuff and my mod design for pce I figured fit nicely flat in between the ribbon cable. The perfboard isn't cheap when you don't get a lot of orders so I keep my PCE mods down to minimal parts, most of which I use in other stuff.

Now I made this weird mod config that my family says looks like a windcatcher or something and my fiance says looks "retarded." IMO it is also way less ime consuming to wire up than perfboard. No linking all those contacts on the bottom of the board. As an alternative I cram all the parts inside of the SCART cable.

I have a pic of the SCART variant, I'll show you.



Hard to not get interference there but I cracked it.

There is, of course tape/heatshrink around the components in the DIN once it goes together, this is just to demonstrate how they go into the DIN.

I got some glue on that resistor in the DIN, it's accidental but I couldn't be bothered wiping it off and let it just set that way. TBH resistor needn't even be there, I was messing around with variants on the mod.

I will probably pour glue inside of that DIN in future as if you squish it, the legs on the caps could touch. Now it's hard to add heatshrink to 100% prevent that, and the DINs aren't as solid as a SCART plug. I sent one of these cables to Duo-R sans any glue as if it gets squished I'm sure he can fix that. And this is the amp in cable I am going to sell if anyone is interested.

I want to try to cram an AD724 s-video circuit inside of a SCART cable too, I am going to try.

[pcenginesales]

I'll attempt to sort out my current issue with interference on my Core over the weekend and I think I'll attempt this one more time.

This time I'll try stacking the chips and tapping them directly into the HU-PCB wiring instead of tapping the pins.

I tend to do mine half and half, all the PCB connections are wired to the bottom of the board, chips glued there then the pin connections go round the board and are soldered up to the pins on the connector. Then I put glue on the connector as the cut pins could end up pushed out over time.

[BlackandBlue]

I am acquiring a CGII that I am going to region mod when it comes in.  First, thanks for this thread, awesome information...

And for the Core, when I get a free moment I am going to try to install a switchless mod. Which will of course be IC only.

This interests me, since I really, really hate cutting holes in anything (I am like this with my car and customers cars when I use to install).  Instead of auto-sensing, which would be the best choice, is there a way to maybe use a magnetic reed switch instead of a standard SPDT switch?  Not sure if it is strong enough to go through the plastic of the console.  Perhaps use a stronger magnet and place some metal around the reed so it sticks to the outside of the console?

[pcenginesales]

I am acquiring a CGII that I am going to region mod when it comes in.  First, thanks for this thread, awesome information...

And for the Core, when I get a free moment I am going to try to install a switchless mod. Which will of course be IC only.

This interests me, since I really, really hate cutting holes in anything (I am like this with my car and customers cars when I use to install).  Instead of auto-sensing, which would be the best choice, is there a way to maybe use a magnetic reed switch instead of a standard SPDT switch?  Not sure if it is strong enough to go through the plastic of the console.  Perhaps use a stronger magnet and place some metal around the reed so it sticks to the outside of the console?

Hi,

It's possible to put most any kind of wireless switch in a console, though I don't like putting magnets near electronics (I'm not too au fait with any damage that could occur, I just don't like the idea.) If you know something about such switches you would know better than I.

There is another thing you can do though. If you are keen on an RGB or S-video mod, you can use unused pins on the cable to add the switch for the region mod to the actual cable.

Say if you disconnect the ground wire on the 8 pin din, use the ground from the shield for the plug instead, that leaves you with a free pin for the terminal on the switch. The +5 and ground for the outer poles are already in the cable.

Now SCART plugs can come complete with switches for video/RGB, you can reroute those to the mod. But it's annoying because the SCART is then around the back of a TV. If you are using a video converter though, you probably have better access to the switch.

Or you can put the switch on the DIN. You would probably have to cut shielding down (annoying) and make a square hole in DIN, gluing this in place.

Or you could put the switch in a small project box on the cable. Some project boxes may even come with built in switches.