Pc-Engine DUO help, it doesn't work ._.

[Elrinth]

Yo I'm new here! Thanks for approving me.

Well I recently bought myself a Pc-Engine duo boxed with 2 games, space harrier and xanadu.

anyways, nothing happens when I turn it on, ie no light on the console and nothing shown on the tv, not even a reaction 
My screwdriver seems not to be able to open the pc-engine itself either, the bit is either to small or too large, it's just sliding.

I'm using a tranformator which I also use for my jap Sega Saturn. But what's weird is that I connect a multimeter to the end of the adapter cable and it shows nothing. Might it be the adapter which is broken and not the console itself? Or maybe I'm not even supposed to connect it to a transformator?

Also I noticed the cd-drivebay lid is kinda weird to open, first it opens just a bit, then you have to help it alittle for it to reach it top point, should it be like that?
also the hu-card lid is sorta loose. If you fiddle extra much you can actually remove it.
If I smell around I don't really smell any burned components.

The connector on the adapter is kinda unique and i couldn't really find any similar so I could put on my special adapter I have which I use for my Sharp Twin Famicom.

I could maybe create a speciall connector by cutting from the adapter cable and attaching noobishly to my special adapter.

I would like to listen to some expertise as you guys seem to really know what you're doing.

[jperryss]

I don't have much to offer (someone smarter will chime in I'm sure) but my Duo-R CD door is the same way, hitting the button just pops the door up and you actually have to lift it all the way up. I assume that's normal.

I'm pretty sure those are tri-wing screws holding the case together.

And if this unit was boxed, haven't you tried using the power adapter that came with it?

[Elrinth]

I don't have much to offer (someone smarter will chime in I'm sure) but my Duo-R CD door is the same way, hitting the button just pops the door up and you actually have to lift it all the way up. I assume that's normal.

I'm pretty sure those are tri-wing screws holding the case together.

And if this unit was boxed, haven't you tried using the power adapter that came with it?

I used the power adapter which came with it, that's the one which doesn't give any results on my multimeter.
I was hoping I could use my special adapter which can have different connectors, but none of them are like the fat one on the power adapter which came with it. and they didn't have one in the stores where I live.

they're not tri-wing.. that's what I have on my wii and gba (and perhaps nds?). I have one of those screwdrivers, so I can say for sure it's not a tri-wing... it's sorta like a six-edge (except its more like a star with 6 edges), I have those kind of bits for my screwdriver, but none of those I have seem to fit the pc-e's.

[jperryss]

Oh OK. Honestly I never looked but I knew they weren't standard screws. Sounds like the 'inverted star' screws they used for the SNES.

[Necromancer]

Welcome aboard!

My screwdriver seems not to be able to open the pc-engine itself either, the bit is either to small or too large, it's just sliding.

I think PCE Duos have 4.5mm gamebit screws (just like the TurboDuo); either that or they're hollow torx screws like the Duo-R and RX.

I'm using a tranformator which I also use for my jap Sega Saturn. But what's weird is that I connect a multimeter to the end of the adapter cable and it shows nothing. Might it be the adapter which is broken and not the console itself? Or maybe I'm not even supposed to connect it to a transformator?

If you're not getting any power out of the adapter, then it must be dead.

Also I noticed the cd-drivebay lid is kinda weird to open, first it opens just a bit, then you have to help it alittle for it to reach it top point, should it be like that?

Like jperryss said, that's normal.  There's no spring to fully lift the lid, just one that's long enough for it to clear the latch.

also the hu-card lid is sorta loose. If you fiddle extra much you can actually remove it.

How loose is it?  They're not terribly stout and sturdy, which is why it's not uncommon to see Duos without their HuCard port covers.

I would like to listen to some expertise as you guys seem to really know what you're doing.

I don't know if that really applies to me, so take the above comments with a grain of salt. 

[Elrinth]

yeah what do you guys recommend I do? And yeah it's torx it's called.
I was hoping the issue was just a safety thingie inside the pc-e duo I could replace, but the issue seems to indeed be the power adapter.
should I cut off the connecter and try to apply it to my special power adapter which takes bits or what should I do?

I've been thinking of going in and buying a real torx key-set and I might get more luck in opening the pc-e duo since the ones I have currently are really budget

[Necromancer]

If my ac adapter died, I'd just buy a new one with proper power ratings and correct tip.  No way would I diddle around and try to MacGyver something together.

[Duo_R]

It's the same as the Duo-R's, I believe a T10 Security Bit Tamper Proof. You can find at the local hardware store sometimes in a little package of 5 or 10 of these (different sizes).

But try the correct AC specs.

I think PCE Duos have 4.5mm gamebit screws (just like the TurboDuo); either that or they're hollow torx screws like the Duo-R and RX.

[Elrinth]

ahh thank you... I did see the power adapter does indeed output voltage... so i'm definatly buying torx and having a look inside the pc-e duo. too bad stores are closed until tuesday

[override]

ahh thank you... I did see the power adapter does indeed output voltage...

The fuse inside might have popped...Its a 3A soldered on so you will have to have to desolder it and resolder the new one!

so i'm definatly buying torx and having a look inside the pc-e duo. too bad stores are closed until tuesday

I made my own! I couldnt find one locally....

Take a flathead screwdriver bit that fits the size of the screws you need on the system (or very close)! Make the center of the screwdrive look like this  -^- with a file or dremel or whatever you want to use....I had a halfround file and just took the edge to the bit.

These bits are tempered so it will take about 5 - 10 minutes to do this job. File the sides to narrow it down to the size you need it (the screws on the duo) and then file the front and back (thinning it out) to make it go a little deeper into the screw head.

I would post picture but its say theres an error....Whatever...

Hope this helps...I know how eager it can be getting into something but you know how long you have to wait.... 

[Duo_R]

the bits are not uncommon, many cars use tamperproof security bits. Before you have to make one, check the local hardware stores and maybe even a small time car part store.

[Elrinth]

yeah it's indeed not normal torx, but with alittle forcing i managed to unscrew even so... anyways, the safety thingie inside looks like it's all right. but still nothing happens when I turn the thing on.
I don't have a camera so I can't show you all how mine looks from the inside, maybe I can borrow from my big brother later..
There's very much dirt inside which I actually can't blow away, it's like it's glued to the board It actually looks pretty good inside besides the dust which seems to infest the left side of the board

Anyways, might something be trouble with my transformator?
specs of it:
Pri: 230V ~ 50-60Hz    -[]- 0.7A
Sec: 110VA ~1.0A       08-09
t = 40 degrees celcius

The Nec power supply:
INPUT AC 100V 50/60Hz 19VA
OUTPUT DC 10V 1000mA

I'm not sure where I'm supposed to put my multimeter sticks to measure the currency inside the box to see if it actually recieves anything. But like I said, I saw my Nec Power Supply did output.

[Charlie]

These numbers:

Pri: 230V ~ 50-60Hz    -[]- 0.7A
Sec: 110VA ~1.0A       08-09
t = 40 degrees celcius


don't make sense.  Please verify the exact data on the transformer.  I would expect the "110VA" to be "110V".
As an FYI, the tilde "~" means AC, which should show as zero volts (or darn close) on a DC VOM.  You may have a working transformer and not know it. Also, given that you specifically call it a "transformer" would support that conclusion.

The power supply specs:
INPUT AC 100V 50/60Hz 19VA
OUTPUT DC 10V 1000mA
are nominal.

Why are you using both a transformer and a power supply?  Are you running off of 220VAC mains, and trying to use a 110VAC power supply?

Charlie